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2004 honda element draining battery


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My Element keeps draining batteries in about a month. I've checked the alternator and its good. I'm pretty sure its a short causing it, but I have no idea how to even begin checking that. or if anyone has any other ideas?

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If the alternator is good (recharging the battery as it is supposed to) and you've gotten a new battery (that doesn't have any bad cells), I'd start moving towards doing volt testing to see what else is drawing from the battery when the vehicle is off.

 

To double check, make sure to test the battery while the car is running which will tell you that the alternator is doing it's job too.  Then test the battery while the car is not running.  Should tell you that both are OK right away with the difference.

 

If those are fine, chances are that it's a wiring issue and something is still pulling voltage while the vehicle is off.  Sounds dumb but have you made sure that your dome light isn't on all of the time?  Once you clear that off the list, it unfortunately becomes a lot more difficult as you will need to start voltage testing everything.  

 

I feel for you, not an easy thing to find!  Might be worth taking to a shop that can hook it up to the computer...I think a 2004 would still have a pc module wouldn't it?

 

Good luck!

 

Flushy

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If the alternator is good (recharging the battery as it is supposed to) and you've gotten a new battery (that doesn't have any bad cells), I'd start moving towards doing volt testing to see what else is drawing from the battery when the vehicle is off.

 

To double check, make sure to test the battery while the car is running which will tell you that the alternator is doing it's job too.  Then test the battery while the car is not running.  Should tell you that both are OK right away with the difference.

 

If those are fine, chances are that it's a wiring issue and something is still pulling voltage while the vehicle is off.  Sounds dumb but have you made sure that your dome light isn't on all of the time?  Once you clear that off the list, it unfortunately becomes a lot more difficult as you will need to start voltage testing everything.  

 

I feel for you, not an easy thing to find!  Might be worth taking to a shop that can hook it up to the computer...I think a 2004 would still have a pc module wouldn't it?

 

Good luck!

 

Flushy

 

 

Yea I have tested the battery and alternator mutliple times, both on and off. I think you are right. I'm pretty sure it is a wire causing a short. I noticed some damage to the wiring harness on the battery.  The sheathing was missing and someone just put electrical tape over it. I bet there is further damage.

 

It does has a PC module, which told me the heater was malfunctioning. I wonder if that may have something to do with the electrical issues also.

 

Do you know if I can test with a regular multimeter?

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what year ?

 

with car off    remove neg cable  place multi-meter  between bat and cable  with meter on low DC volt scale , max should 5 mV  draw  if more , start unplugging things off the harness till you get below 5mV

 

then follow back to each device

 

my hunch is the body module

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what year ?

 

with car off    remove neg cable  place multi-meter  between bat and cable  with meter on low DC volt scale , max should 5 mV  draw  if more , start unplugging things off the harness till you get below 5mV

 

then follow back to each device

 

my hunch is the body module

Kapt, i think you mean DC mA, not volts.  Make sure you have your test leads in the correct inputs.  Usually A is a different input from V.

 

That was going to be my suggestion too.  Start pulling fuses until you see the current drop.

 

One other thing.  Not sure how you tested the alternator, but i had an alternator that charged the battery fine but was actually the problem.  I might have had a bad rectifier diode or who knows what, but when replaced the battery stopped draining.

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Kapt, i think you mean DC mA, not volts.  Make sure you have your test leads in the correct inputs.  Usually A is a different input from V.

 

That was going to be my suggestion too.  Start pulling fuses until you see the current drop.

 

One other thing.  Not sure how you tested the alternator, but i had an alternator that charged the battery fine but was actually the problem.  I might have had a bad rectifier diode or who knows what, but when replaced the battery stopped draining.

 

I tested it the ghetto way by starting the car, disconnected the battery and the car stayed on.... also took it to autozone and they tested it with their machine.

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with car off  ALT  remove the battery feeder line (usally the 10 gauage wire at rear)  place meter between connection and check draw 

 

volts  setting for if use amperes  most meters won't read that low  

 

millivolt is the way to go

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You can use a voltmeter or do it by pulling the cable on battery and looking for a spark (ghetto way). This way you can work on it at night time also. Start by pulling fuse for the heater like your car said. LOL Look at spark again. If it got less of a spark then that is probably it.

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so you drive the car a lot even if you have a short the battery should stay charged are you letting the car sit then in 30 days the battery is dead,if your driving the car you alternator might be over charging the battery killing it so that would be your voltage regulator

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its milli amps /

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Now this is a coincidence...my 06 Element has the same issue. Have had everything tested by 3 different garages and all said no issue with alternator or anything draining it while truck was off.

 

I live very close to work and play so I only drive 15 miles, or less, a week. Figured I just wasn't driving enough to keep it charged. Just did a 2000 mile road trip so I will see how long it holds up. Do you put some mileage on the Element between dead batteries? My neighbor had a friend with a similar problem and his solution was a cheap trickle charger. 

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another question  does car have aftermarket alarm installed ?

 

seen some of them become power drainers  

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Ok  so like they told you put a volt /ohm meter on 10  amp

Put the leads on the neg terminal and the battery post

 make sure everything is off because if you pull more than 10 amps you will blow your fuse

now with the door shut you should have between .01 ans .05 mil amps

if higher than that start pulling fuses and watching till it drops.

I found a guys a/c relay was sticking on his Honda Ridgeline

When we pulled the relay amp draw went away so we replaced his relay and all is good.

Edited by 6FtUnder
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Oh and you should not remove battery lead while vehicle is running it may damage the alternator or worse the ecm.

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Pull the Air Cond. relay and see if it quits draining the battery. The Honda element had an issue with the a/c compressor clutch relay sticking on and draining batt.-------2-4 amp draw. Goodluck

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report back on a/c  relay rougeKill

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report back on a/c  relay rouge

watcha mean?

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Simple way to check Ghetto way for a short is to disconnect the negative cable and connect a circuit tester

one end on battery and one end one cable if it lights you have a positive current running down the negative side (short)

from there you can pull fuses one at a time til the light goes out ....as you pull put them back until it goes out

 

once you find what fuse the short is on you can go from there

 

 

 

circuit tester is connected negative to negative as described above

Edited by loaderXI
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Simple way to check Ghetto way for a short is to disconnect the negative cable and connect a circuit tester

one end on battery and one end one cable if it lights you have a positive current running down the negative side (short)

from there you can pull fuses one at a time til the light goes out ....as you pull put them back until it goes out

 

once you find what fuse the short is on you can go from there

 

 

 

circuit tester is connected negative to negative as described above

just take it to auto parts store like autozone or o reileys they have testers for that....its the best way to find out

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My Element keeps draining batteries in about a month. I've checked the alternator and its good. I'm pretty sure its a short causing it, but I have no idea how to even begin checking that. or if anyone has any other ideas?

my guess as i have had tons of experiencing this many many times with cars is more than likely ur starter is goin bad...

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I found and bought a new testing device for the battery/system/charger test called "Solar BA7" on amazon. it's pretty simple to use and take out all the guess works.

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Did you ever find the problem

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Rookido     better off with a multi-meter    12.6 vdc is  fully charged  when car is off ,  running 13-17vdc means its charging

 

I'm pretty sure that won't check load  1200cca on 16ga wire

 

great tool if not know how to use a multi-meter 

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test for a draw on the battery with volt meter ,most should be under 30milli amps.connect a meter between your cable and the battery post.watch it for about 20 minutes to see where it lowers to.its well over 30ma then start pulling fuses one by one carefully till the draw comes down in range.the fuse that lowers it significantly is the circuit you have a problem with,at this point you need a schematic of that circuit to find out what parts to start unpluging to fing the bad component/module or shorted wires-is something electrical not recently working?

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