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Rear brakes 97 suburban


Mekketom

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i got a 97 sub.. 6.5 TD.  i have changed the drums. brake shoes. all wires to the parking brake. all springs for the brakes.. . everything with the rear brakes is new..

 

Now the rear brakes lock up. have drag. and going warm. 

 

i have tried adjusting the shoes both in and out towards the drum.  then the parking brake wont work.but still they drag. cause of the EU directive the P-brake must work.

i have lifted the truck back up. taken the drums of.. everything looks fine. adjusted it and it turns smooth and fine with no drag. start driving and it begins again...

i have started car with the drums of.. to see if the master cyl build up pressure when the engine runs.. without using the pedal. and it don`t. so its not that.

 

WTH is wrong?  help help...

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Hit me up on xfire and or t/s....... maybe able to help you Sir.

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do they start dragging after you are driving and hit the brakes and release them?

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To many questions to ask that's why I said hit me up on xife.... lol btw FU 7Toes sir

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yeah.. from my house down to the main road there is a steep hill. so i must use them. the road is gravel. and if i shock the brake pedal just a bit. the rear wheels lock up. and they start to drag.... 

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added you on x-fire Budman

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on some suburbans over the years ive replaced the proportioning valve  when problems like this have occured .or sometimes rear brakes not adjusted properly/-adjust up and then spin tire if slows down just after  2 rotations then its ok as i remember-gl

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replace the backing plate on wheel that locks up

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Has this been resolved?

 

With "modern" brakes they self-adjust.  You back up and pump the brakes and they tighten up to a point based on the 'servo function' as it works when going backwards.  Since this wasn't a problem prior to your replacing everything it's likely something you did.  I believe it's possible to reverse the automatic adjusting bits so they work wrong, as in adjusting as you go FORWARD.  This could cause what's happening since they are manually adjusted fine but then tighten up as soon as you apply them going forward.

 

You could try adjusting them manually again then back down the road gently pumping the brakes and see if the bind-up doesn't happen.

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drove the car to work to day... stil a no go. the backing plates where cleaned there was no damage to surface the shoes touch. i have lossend everything.. the p-wires are loose. shoes adjusted all inn from the drum. the self adjuster are fitted like it should... i have to work this weekend so i will look at it more on monday. 

 

and its both wheels.... same story.

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then look at the shoes for are primary and secondary

 

the long shoe goes facing the rear and short faces the front

 

maybe the set you gotten  aren't correct

 

but still look at the ancor pin is parrelle to axle

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ds5bwkwgQDA

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forgot to say the adjusters are left and right thread

 

so make sure that then looking at when brakes all together

 

 an that downward stroke of adjuster arm is opening (getting longer) adjuster

 

as in video the back side is upward

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the shoes are the correct ones.. they fit the drum.. and primary/secondary is fitted where they should be.  

 

i cant open the video too see it....

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You may have bad rear brake hose

Acting like a check valve

When the brakes are locked up or draging open one of the rear wheel cylinder bleeders to see if fluid comes out and the rear wheels turn easy if sso the brake hose is bad

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Will do Idoz... 

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then look at the shoes for are primary and secondary

 

the long shoe goes facing the rear and short faces the front

 

maybe the set you gotten  aren't correct

 

but still look at the ancor pin is parrelle to axle

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ds5bwkwgQDA

Pondering this today and thought poss same thing :)

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mek  you say both wheels lock up ?

 

then its MASTER CYLINDER not releasing pistons in wheel cyldinders

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its both wheels yes.. no problem before change.. only that they where worn out.... il will post on monday when i had the chance to look at it again...

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It's the adjusters.

It's the adjusters.

It's the adjusters.

 

Oh before I forget to mention it:

It's the adjusters.

 

You have them in backwards..  They don't look ANY DIFFERENT when they're in backwards.  You can NOT just look at them.   You really need to test them as KaptCrunch describes.

 

You can test them from the outside of the vehicle, (without removing the drums),  thru the adjusting windows, if you read his description very carefully and then reverse things, as appropriate, since thru the window is backwards from his standard installation description.

Edited by SPUCK
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Fuck all that work cut a hole in the floor go Flintstone style!

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Now they work..... i took it all of again... looked at the backplate... two three areas where the shoe rest at.  where worn at the edge... so the shoe would drop into that groove and stay there.. making the corner of the shoe drag the drum and dragging the other shoe down. so they started locking the brakes. i welded up the grooves.. and used a grinder to make it smooth and nice... i also fitted the shoes more accurate to the drum.. by using sandpaper and allot of patience. now they follow the curve of the drum 100%.   the final and fine adjustment will i do tomorrow.  took it for a test drive earlier to day.... ohh happy days.... :lol:  :animier:  

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Mek your done  no adjustment needed   good job  a couple stops they are adjusted

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Are you mechanically sound? better try the vehicle manual to see what you did incorrectly. Brake jobs are not too complicated, especially replacing the shoes, springs, drums, or disk.

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So a trained mechanic cant ask for some advise? 

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