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1998 Chevy K1500 4.3L V6 Vortec


CaptDumprope

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So, I have a 98 Chevy pickup, that I cannot get to start at all. Just to give a little background I've had the truck for about 2 months and the previous owner really abused it and didn't maintain it well, it has 168k miles and was still running strong. Up until the morning it didn't start I had been driving it daily. I changed the oil some 1k miles prior with thick synthetic blend. I've put new coolant in it. I've change the front brakes and rotors. And yesterday I changed the distributor cap, because it was getting weak spark to the plugs, which it helped. Anyways the water pump went out a couple days before it not starting. And it seems like the pump would work if I'd rev in neutral then put it in drive. Anyways I have no idea what's wrong but if anyone has a clue I'd like to know lol. Also: the fuel pump DOES work.

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Get you a OBD2 reader...about 25 bucks at a parts store. No need in buying one that cost hundreds of dollars. Plug it in and read the codes...some OBD2 readers will tell you PP0133 Bad O2 sensor #1, others will just give you the code and you have to google it. Either way these newer cars are much much easier to fix...they tell you what's wrong with them and then you can just watch how to fix on You tube....

 

Happy motoring,

 

johnny

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It can seem pretty intimidating when your car won't start and you don't have any idea where to start looking, You said the fuel pump is working how did you determine that? Is there a fuel filter? your fuel pump might be working just fine but if the filter is clogged it might as well not be working.

You mentioned that it had a weak spark did you use a meter or something to test it?

Look for something simple that you could have overlooked when you worked on it the last time did you accidentally knock a wire loose or forget to hook up? I've done that a few times.

A simple test to determine if the problem is spark related or fuel related is to go to the parts store and buy some starting fluid spray some in the air cleaner and try and start it . . .if it starts and dies then you are getting spark and then look for a fuel problem . . . . . .  if it doesn't fire at all your not getting any spark and should check the ignition system.

While your at the auto parts store as  @@JNashvilleXI said buy yourself a code reader it will help you more than anything. 

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my bets are spark module under disturbutor cap

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Like Johnny No. 5 said, "Need input, more input!"

 

Does the motor turn over--you said it doesn't start. If your engine doesn't even turn over, it's probably your starter.

 

You check to see if your battery is charged? How old is your battery? You can get a battery tester pretty cheaply at Wal-Mart.

 

Input, need more input!! Ayaq

 

P.S. - Next time, buy a Ford.

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what  Fix. Or. Repair. Daily.

 

that's was in the 70's   they smarten up

 

all cars are money pits, be it any brand   

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you better have changed the ignition rotor as well-

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It won't start if you still have Summertime fuel in the tank, when it gets cold at night that stuff just won't burn trust me I sold lots of those trucks plus I own a 1998 350/V8 ex-cab 4x4 1/2 ton chevy with 120,000 miles. Also once you get it running make sure you use winter air for best gas mileage

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Well just to clarify a few things that I seemed to have forgot to add, I've already run an old scan on it while it was sitting and it was an oxygen sensor that I already knew about that had been up there for a while, no other codes though, it does crank still and it'll fire on the 6th cylinder for a split second but it won't start to run, I think it might have jumped timing. Also concerning the fuel, it's a tbi system so I can smell the fuel in the system when I press the gas and I have the intake off, also the pump hums when I turn the ignition for a bit so I know it's starting up, I put 3 gallons of new gas in it, with octane booster and a bit of heet water remover. I went yesterday and bought some tune up parts for it, I changed the cap and rotor even though the rotor looked nearly new, I changed the wires the spark is much brighter, and I tried to start it with the throttle body exposed with starting fluid being sprayed in it and with the intake on with starting fluid sprayed into the intake, still no dice. It'll crank til the cows come home with a few late pops at the end of each cycle. Honestly I think it's a timing issue. This truck has been a shitty choice for me lately, mainly cause most of the exhaust fell off and now all I have is a loud ass cat. I do maintain my vehicles but unfortunately people who owned them before me haven't.

EDIT: I have a whole arsenal of tools just not the time to use them or the day light, I have charged the battery with a charger and I let it sit on a maintainer over night after that. I have an obd scanner with read out, welders , hand tools out the ass, jacks, you name it. I just can't figure this out on my own. But I really do appreciate you guys responding with feedback , thank you very much. Seems like I'll have to stop in the local shop cause I'm not well keyed with engine timing adjustment.

Edited by CaptDumprope
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"This truck has been a shitty choice for me lately, mainly cause most of the exhaust fell off and now all I have is a loud ass cat."

 

Lol, Captain Jump Rope. The biggest problem you have is that your truck begins with "Ch" and ends with "evrolet."

 

I told you--buy a Ford, "F.ly O.ver R.ocks and D.itches," or " F.irst O.n R.ace D.ay"--and you won't have those problems.

 

In the past 5 years, I know of three associates/friends that bought new Chevy's or GMC's (same company). All three trucks had electrical or transmission problems--BRAND NEW!!

 

Just sayin'. Ayaq

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In the past 5 years, I know of three associates/friends that bought new Chevy's or GMC's (same company). All three trucks had electrical or transmission problems--BRAND NEW!!

 

Just sayin'. Ayaq

My 2010 Pontiac which is also the same company had to have the transmission replaced after the 2nd year of owning it so 2012 I had it replaced. Luckily it was still under warranty. GM sucks.

Edited by HellTigris
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Eh, not really into brand hate. I mean it's not a newer gym, which is absolute shit, lots of brands have their problems like the mid 2000s Ford v8 tritons always had prevalent problems with coils and plugs, dodge is just absolute garbage since 1999 Honda works for some, and Hyundai has been quite reliable. But I mean , no two cars are the same, no matter the brand or year, everyone with have it's niche flaws. But I mean old Chevy is pretty good and solid to me, it's all about preference and experience I guess.

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@@CaptDumprope your right every car maker has made a lemon over the years but they are getting better all the time. For me I'm a Ford guy and I think that's because my dad had Fords and that was what I helped him work on so I was familiar with Fords and when it was time for my first car it was my brothers 65 Mustang.

You say you have all kinds of tools . .Don't give up you can do this.

You can hear the fuel pump when you try and start it and you smell gas the fuel probably isn't the problem, if the gas was bad it would have fired up with the starting fluid

Since you tried the starting fluid and it was a no go I would tend to agree with you its a timing/spark issue.

Did you double check to make sure you put the plug wires back on right? look on the intake manifold it should have the firing order on it.

How did you know that it was the #6 cyl that fired?

Do you have a timing light? have you ever used one?

Most all newer cars the timing is set and doesn't need to be adjusted but you can check that by hooking up the timing light.

also if you move the clamp on the timing light to each plug wire then crank it you can see if the plug wire is getting juice from the Dist without pulling the plug.

 

Take a look at this

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/how-to-troubleshoot-a-no-start-1

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20 minutes with an old mechanic  and your problems will be solved.. if you can then get that over to a shop before you throw too many parts at it

 

if  I had to guess then possible ignition module or crank sensor if coil checks out  and your sure its not fuel related /gl

after that pcm or wiring

Edited by Damage_inc-
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Yeah you have no spark or at least not a strong enough spark

 

 

No codes hmmmm check coil....Make sure ur security light goes out as well if not unplug the bcm (under seat maybe) and try to start

just had one yesterday with a bcm that looked like it had taken a salt bath with the Titanic 

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Yeah so, my stepdad was a mechanic for 10 years a service and sales manager for 10 years and has 20 years of ironworking on top of that. And we have tools out the ass, soI just think we'll have to do a day of analysis on this hunk of shit truck. lol

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Well just to clarify a few things that I seemed to have forgot to add, I've already run an old scan on it while it was sitting and it was an oxygen sensor that I already knew about that had been up there for a while, no other codes though, it does crank still and it'll fire on the 6th cylinder for a split second but it won't start to run, I think it might have jumped timing. Also concerning the fuel, it's a tbi system so I can smell the fuel in the system when I press the gas and I have the intake off, also the pump hums when I turn the ignition for a bit so I know it's starting up, I put 3 gallons of new gas in it, with octane booster and a bit of heet water remover. I went yesterday and bought some tune up parts for it, I changed the cap and rotor even though the rotor looked nearly new, I changed the wires the spark is much brighter, and I tried to start it with the throttle body exposed with starting fluid being sprayed in it and with the intake on with starting fluid sprayed into the intake, still no dice. It'll crank til the cows come home with a few late pops at the end of each cycle. Honestly I think it's a timing issue. This truck has been a shitty choice for me lately, mainly cause most of the exhaust fell off and now all I have is a loud ass cat. I do maintain my vehicles but unfortunately people who owned them before me haven't.

EDIT: I have a whole arsenal of tools just not the time to use them or the day light, I have charged the battery with a charger and I let it sit on a maintainer over night after that. I have an obd scanner with read out, welders , hand tools out the ass, jacks, you name it. I just can't figure this out on my own. But I really do appreciate you guys responding with feedback , thank you very much. Seems like I'll have to stop in the local shop cause I'm not well keyed with engine timing adjustment.

 

if handy with tools    bring the timing mark to zero and check the rockers (under valve cover the cyl head closest to rad)  by turning crank pulley and check #1 cyl  is in time in the disturb cap

 

possible the timing chain has jumped

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What's that, Captain Jump Rope, you like hand tools in your ass, what da?

 

Lol. Change your fuel filter. If it still doesn't work, change the engine out for a Ford 4.0 Litre engine. Reliable, torquey, and easy to maintain.

 

Good luck. Ayaq

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Ok so witj the 98 4.3 you need at least 80 psi of fuel pressure.  So if you buy a pump from a local parts store probably wont last long. This i have seen many times. Better off to buy from dealer.

Now as far as spark. On a 98 depends on . Do you have the coil/ mudule on passenger side between intake and valve cover.

Not only should you check each but do a wire pull test on the plug ins as they are prone to go out especially the one on the coil.

Now also with that engine sometimes the gear on the distributor wears and can jump time. In which you would verify #1 top dead center then remove cap and verify the rotor button is aimed at the notch in the top base ond dizzy.

A code reader will not tell if jumped time or low fuel pressure on that model.

Hope any of this helps if not let me know here or @ [email protected]

Like I s aid check the white and the pink wires on the plug to the coil

Edited by 6FtUnder
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RESOLVED: So i know its been like two months, but i took it down to the shop to get it checked out and then they found a short in the dash that had messed with the ignition process and then it started, and i flipped it and now its out of my hair :), thanks for the input though guys!

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Good deal then however for future reference.

Yes 98 and new Vortex need at least 80 psi to run most auto parts stores dont do well or last long on this.

Also if you have no spark but have the coil and module mounted on bracket on intake onver valve cover check those but more important check the white and pink wires on coil from module.

As they are peoned to give problems.

And one last thing on some of those engines the distributor drive gear would wear down causing timing to jump.

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