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'89 Ford F-250 Project Continues


Axe

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Still working on the fuel system.  Dropped the front tank this weekend ... whew.  What a mess.  The sending unit was half gone ... the pump intermitant and the float mostly disintegrated.  Will take to a rad shop to try cleaning.  If that is a no go, then it's a new tank.

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Nice I'll show you some pictures of my first vehicle 1975 Chevy pickup 350 bored over 30 rebuilt engine and a 400 crank put in 383 Strokers what I made it all done by me 100% brakes transmission rebuilt engine valve job piston rings crankshaft bearings lifters turn Demento roller rocker lifters this thing was pushing probably 600 horsepower just from a parking lot not a shop

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Edited by Texas
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That tank looks repairable by the photos, seen and done some a lot worse, but need of course to price cost of repair vs new one. I realise you probably know this, but just in case, always steam (or similar) the tank inside until all residue gone. Never try to weld a fuel tank that hasn't been gas freed, you can get them 'dipped' in epoxy, but a proper repair should put a pressure test on it in a bath. Sender unit an easy fix, just a replacement, if they leak it's usually on the welded seams.

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Ya.  This tank is not leaking and seems solid even around where the sending unit mounts.  I'll let the professionals tell me if I should repair or replaced.  We don't have Rockauto up here in Canada although we can get their stuff shipped to the border and pick it up.  (I can't cross the border, but there are locals offering this service now.)  I think a replacement tank is around $300.  Typically repair should be cheaper and I prefer the metal tank over a replacement plastic one.  Will be pricing stuff out today.  

@TexasThat looks like a nice build you did!  I don't intend this truck to be anything other than a hunting/fishing/zombie killer.  I just want to be able to rely on it.  The 460 with a 5 speed was not a common option, so it's worth putting in the time and effort to get it running.

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Could have it porcelain coated which is a common practice so long as the outside is in good shape

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3 hours ago, loaderXI said:

Could have it porcelain coated which is a common practice so long as the outside is in good shape

Did the same thing to an ex gf - worked out well

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lol ... 

Ordered a new tank today.  $225 CDN coming up from Chicago.  Cleaning and epoxy would have been around $200 ... so the decision was easy.

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11 hours ago, Axe said:

 We don't have Rockauto up here in Canada although we can get their stuff shipped to the border and pick it up.  (I can't cross the border, but there are locals offering this service now.)  I think a replacement tank is around

the parts source & CTC are the same company as rockauto, odd last fall i order some parts, now no web links to them  at all...strange 

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fresh tank, check rest of fuel system like filters and carb bowl for dirt or clean injectors, was $60 at carb shop to clean and calibrate injectors last time had it done after a leaky injector was the issue to begin with.  

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Texas  would been better to put a 700R4 behind that beast for fuel savings

note with GM 350 , 400 and 700 series trans are the numbers that trans can support out the back of trans , would need to beef up the input shaft for the torque monster you built  

Axe while waiting on tank check over the system 

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Nice project, good deal on saving tank, Rest of complete fuel system should all be replaced. You will be fighting fuel system problem if you don't , Money well spent in long run, Good luck. Keep us updated.

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3 hours ago, ANGU5 said:

Nice project, good deal on saving tank, Rest of complete fuel system should all be replaced. You will be fighting fuel system problem if you don't , Money well spent in long run, Good luck. Keep us updated.

I've done most everything on the fuel system except the lines and the reservoir.  Once the front tank is good and working well then I'll tackle the rear tank.

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Rear tanks can be a bit harder to find for 80s and early to mid 90s trucks and quite a bit more money than a front tank.

 

With the condition of the sock or pre filter on your old fuel pickup in the front tank I would be worrier about rust and junk in the Reservoir on the bottom of the selector valve.  OEM fuel selector valve is $400+ US. If you unscrew the bowl on the bottom of the selector valve it Will ruin the large rubber o-ring. That's why it says Do Not Disassemble on the side of them.

You will need a rubber strap type oil filter wrench to take the bowl off without ruining it if it's to tight or stuck to get off with your hands.

 

Some of them have a filter in the Reservoir and some do not. The only way that I've found to get a new rubber O-Ring is to buy the filter kit. WIX Fuel Filter kit part# 33268 will work.

https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-33268-Cartridge-Canister/dp/B000C9TB18  

 

When you go to put the bowl/Reservoir back on, make sure that you put a light coat of grease or oil on the O-Ring and Seat before you hand tighten it. This will help prevent the O-Ring from distorting or folding or rolling up from friction. 

 

The switch on the dash just turns either pump on and off. The Selector valve just has a large diaphragm in it and 2 pressure activated valves. The large diaphragm insures no pressure drops when switching tanks. 1 of the 2 valves will open when the corresponding pump supply's enough pressure. Pretty simple mechanical switching valve. 

 

Our old International Scout 800 had a manual tank valve on the floor that always leaked even though dad rebuilt it 3 times maybe 10 years. When the rear tank started leaking it got disconnected and plumbed straight to the front tank. Got a few more years out of it but the old AMC 266ci V8 that was in it was using more oil than gas. Dad kept dumping the STP and and engine oil thickener in it but she was using about 1 1/2 quarts to go to town and back which was about 24 miles round trip. He parked it up by the shed and it sat for about 5 years and someone randomly stopped at the house and bought it.

 

 

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