Coorslight

ok. i5 ur goign to have 100-200 in cpu and 100-200 in a good board. and 100 in a case. wow we dont have shit and have 300-500 already. its cheap to be honest. i wouldnt take less then a grand for my system. phenom II t1090 3.2ghz 6 core 4 gigs of amd black edition memory 640 gig hard drive dvd rom and ati HD5770 with gd70-790 fx board with xclio wind tunnel case. and last thing i've ordered was the cpu.. what 2-3 years ago

no i havent. my best luck has been hot burning plugs. lately i've tried these silver tip accels. 6 on the heat range compared to 5 with irridiums. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-526s/overview/make/chevrolet

i have a xfx 5770 single fan card. runs up to 75C before the fan speed will even go over 30% usage. now that i use MSI afterburner i can make the fan speed go up fo different temps i can get my card to max out @ 55C on hours of gaming. and overclocked.

basically you get what you pay for, almost all brands have their inexpensive consumer lines, and their hardcore best of the best architecture line. Yes but i've also had few cheaper ones in my day and other expensive ones. so idk everyone had different issues. foxconn i think was one of my first with a P4 system. it just dumbed speeds down to 33mhz for memory and hard drive. so i went to amd after my 4th board going bad. on intel setup. since i've had biostar gx790 onboard video quit on that which i could care less about. and that had nothing to do with the quality. that was drunk night had side off my computer and room mates were playing with airsoft guns. and beer + airsoft = dented case and a wet motherboard.

4890 friend had 3 of them he used HIS ice q4 cards and they ran really cool. Amd heat issue is drivers. if u run Msi afterburner or just manually adjust the fan speed they dont run that bad. but dont run the coolers that have 2 fans or a centered single fan. they are the ones that run hot.

idk motherboard brands IMO anymore are the same no matter what. ur going to have your good ones and bad ones. everyone told me MSI is horrible. well 3 years later not a single issue. 790Fx-gd70 board. supports 2-16x crossfire and 4 cards total. 2133 memory downfall now is Sata 6.0 and cpu support is limited to 6 core Phenom II which seems to be more then powerful to play any game with little issues. what ever u build memory speed has been my big factor. went from 1333 memory to 2133 and holy crap. gaining 20-80 fps depending on the game. what ever you build figure out your "Bottle neck" and figure it out. mine now is my video card but so tapped out on money from school this and that.. so i've neglected that issue.

they were cheap plugs being fried by MSD and i duration cam. needs good good plugs. only brand i've ever seen do that in my engine. 450-500 horse 355 sbc. had few hrs and i never reuse my plugs after any tear down. none of the parts stores carried a platnum or irridum plug for my engine. so i threw cheap ones in it and it dropped 2 cylinders first time down the track. burnout box i was fine but after 330 foot mark just completely died. 4500 only higher it would rev. my shift lights @ 7500. but u get what u pay for i guess

every time i've done rear plugs in FWD v6. undo the Dog-bone engine mount. ratchet strap from the rear of the intake to core support. u can achieve more room then using the next hole on the dog bone. also just because they are sorta of a hassle to change. i've always replaced with Irridiums or platnums so i never have to deal with them for long time. This is from my truck. cheap plugs. these lasted. a month. maybe 2 of 8 junk in 50-100 miles. champions good for sleds and lawn care equipment but ill never buy another for my cars or trucks.

I feel outdated lol had my Motherboard for few years. Manufacturer: MICRO-STAR INTERNATIONAL CO.,LTD Processor: AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Processor (6 CPUs), ~3.2GHz Memory: 8192MB RAM Hard Drive: 120gb SSD/ 640gb HDD Video Card: ATI Radeon HD 6900 Series Monitor: 25" Hanns-G 2ms response 1080P Sound Card: Speakers (Realtek High Definition Audio) Speakers/Headphones: Logitec cheapo Keyboard: Pos gateway Mouse: ahhh HP? Mouse Surface: Lol... gots a birdy on it. Operating System: Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit (6.1, Build 7600) (7600.win7_rtm.090713-1255) Motherboard: MSI 790FX-GD70 Computer Case: XCLIO Windtunnel/ CORSAIR HX Series 1000 watt

compression gauge can tell you whether head gasket, but if the belts off it will have low compression also. check oil for milkiness. exhaust may smell sweet. also pull radiator cap start it, if it starts shooting out. yeah that would be a head gasket. also might have burnt valves, vaccum gauge will tell you if valves are seating correctly. should be 15-20 inches of vaccum.

Ford 6.7L diesel. 400 horse 800 ft lbs of torque and mid 20's for gas mileage driving correctly. i would strongly look into a diesel if your pulling. my old work truck was 04 F350 with 5.4L and it was a turd trying to pull trailer up hills.but it never broke down. when they retired that i got a 2011 f450 with 6.7L and omg i fell in love. the gmc and chevy's we had had transmission issues many times. i would take a ford for pulling anyday. and sad thing is im a chevy guy. but thats my toys if i want something to be working hard ill get a ford no 2nd guessing.

my 89 gmc had the issue i took the drum off and just cleaned it. just soo much dust in there with mosture made it really sticky and it would grab. fix was $4 for can of brake cleaner. also some graphite pads and shoes when they get hot grab like crazy. i've ruined few rotors with graphite pads.

also cheap fix can of WD-40 lol. srsly works just shoot the coils with it and will draw out any water and run like a million bucks.

only @ stop signs? might be Torque convertor lock up also. if ur thinking wires. i've put a brand new set on before that were junk. and they were really nice set. easiest way to check wires is with a MULTIMETER. put it on OHMS and should be between 0-10 ohms if not that check the coils for corrusion or rust. and just get electrical greese on the connections and place wires back on. and every mitsubishi engine i've ever messed with had rocker noise. easy way to pin point where sounds coming from is get a long screwdriver while it's running and hold the end against something and other end against your ear. you can figure out exactly where the noise is coming from. works as well as a mechanics stethoscope.