CrazyCoder

Keep getting "uninitialized variable errors" when I nest arguments inside of arguments. Game is Call of Duty 2. _players.gsc PostPlayerDamage(eInflictor, eAttacker, iDamage, iDFlags, sMeansOfDeath, sWeapon, vPoint, vDir, sHitLoc, psOffsetTime) { //Gas Nade self thread _mc2\_gasnade::GasPlayerDamage(vPoint, eInflictor, eAttacker, iDamage, iDFlags, sMeansOfDeath, sWeapon, level.mustardgas, vDir, sHitLoc, psOffsetTime); //flame nade self thread _mc2\_flamenade::FlamePlayerDamage(vPoint, eInflictor, eAttacker, iDamage, iDFlags, sMeansOfDeath, sWeapon, level.flamenade, vDir, sHitLoc, psOffsetTime); //helmet pop thread _mc2\_helmetpop::HelmetPlayerDamage(sHitLoc, sMeansOfDeath, self.helm, vPoint, self.curhat, iDamage, "death", org, ch, vDir, model); } _gasnade.gsc Snippet GasPlayerDamage(vPoint, eInflictor, eAttacker, iDamage, iDFlags, sMeansOfDeath, sWeapon, level.mustardgas, vDir, sHitLoc, psOffsetTime) { if(isdefined(self.protected))return; if(isDefined(sWeapon) && sWeapon == "axisgas_mp"||sWeapon == "alliedgas_mp" && sMeansOfDeath != "MOD_MELEE") { if (!isDefined(vPoint)) vPoint = self.origin + (0,0,11); if(isDefined(level.mustardgas) && level.mustardgas == vPoint) return; level.mustardgas = vPoint; level thread MonitorMustardGas(eInflictor, eAttacker, iDamage, iDFlags, sMeansOfDeath, sWeapon, level.mustardgas, vDir, sHitLoc, psOffsetTime); return; } } So basically I want to use _players.gsc to call all needed scripts without calling each one inside the gametype files. https://github.com/PlusIce4/Merciless-Mod-2/tree/Testnet (<=== Experimental update is here)

Got a money question. Suppose I want to get a payment process to process transactions and ship stuff out. Don't want PayPal (will talk about it below). Have no interest in registering a domain name or making an eCommerce Site. So I use would use something like Cragislist or an App like 5 Miles that takes Stripe or allows you to transfer to Bank Account (a Business Bank Account?). I would then sell off stuff under 3 Lbs valued at around $6 to $50, Low risk non computer stuff. Then would pay Uncle Sam (US Gov) his cut to keep him from repo'ing my stuff. Not a tax expert myself, but I'd assume it would be easier to "throw money at it" then locking horns with the man. As for PayPal what I heard they want to piggy back money when you get a chargeback, so you would have to run to post office and ship from there to avoid just giving a refund without return. PayPal can close and suspend accounts for whatever, and they were recently hacked (google search it). Want to avoid Crypto Currency as payment as it's going to crash very soon.

Going to give you an example of government money vs Bitcoin to put it in perspective: In an alternative Universe I became the Living Prophet of Southern New Jersey. Population is around 2 Million people. Jersey Dinars (our money) is total of 40 Million Jersey Dinars. 1 Jersey Dinar (JD) = 2 Bitcoin (BTC) in February 2018 Now the value of the Jersey Dinars are worth how valuable the Country's economy is. Another-words, If the Living Prophet orders his Country to annex Northern New Jersey and New York State in the winter time and looses the war badly then 1 JD = 0.001 BTC. If the Living Prophet dies and a dummy takes over deciding to increase money supply to 40 Trillion Jersey Dinars then 1 JD = 0.00001 BTC. Bitcoin unlike Jersey Dinars is not backed by anything at all. It's like using stocks as virtual money. Stocks are extremely volatile. The company stake of stocks can increases to major amounts. There is no limit to have many kinds of Crypto Currencies can be in circulation. Currently there is around 1 thousand different Crypto Currencies and a maxmuim of 21 Million Bitcoins. Bitcoin much like stocks are very vulnerable to speculation and insider trading. Top Crypto Gurus can decided to spread rumors about Bitcoin or Litecoin demise due to Sewit or other changes. The sheeple will go along and mass sell, Crypto Gurus mass buy at rock bottom prices. The mass buying drives the prices up and the Crypto Gurus make big return. Nevertheless, Bitcoin has attracted opposition from the other side. Most governments are taking steps to stonewall it. There want a centralized Crypto Currency, why would European Union or Uncle Sam (US Gov) allow people to do financial transactions without getting a piece of the pie? You'd be living in a fools paradise if you really think the International Bankers are going to allow an decentralized entity be traded to evade taxation and replace their paper money that has no melt value. The governments are shutting down Mining Farms in droves. China, Egypt (Fatwa against Bitcoin: Gambling), India (possibility), USA (Anti Crypto Laws), Canada et al. If no one mines or only a select few, Bitcoin will fail for sure. It's going to fail if the powers to be are fully against it.

We got Russian, then Desert. Whats next, I heard they were working on another map.

Hey I see a deal on some Intel 320 300GB or 600GB SSDs on ebay around 70ish range. Or should I just splurge for a Samsung 840 500GB or Sandisk 480GB? How much better then a 1TB WD Black 2013 speed wise?

Title says it all, worth it to splurge and get an ASUS PCE-AC88 4 antenna PCIe card or just keep my Rosewill PCIe N300 PCIe card? Maybe just a two antenna AC PCIe card is fine?

Johnny brought up a good point. The Gov needs workers to actually work, not get paid whether you do or not. Instead of hiring Unionized people with "diplomatic immunity" or "Unofficial Tenure", they should subcontract the job to private enterprise. If they slack off, terminate contract and sub out to next company? Though it was just to power companies in New Jersey that slacked off like that. Hiding in shopping centers and going to Dunkin Donuts whenever. Got nothing against workers rights via unions but this immunity from getting fired has got to go. But don't worry guys, once the economy goes belly up. The Country will go Fascist or Communist. In a Communist country, everyone works. Each according to their abilities and their needs. In Soviet America, Revolution finds YOU !!! But all kidding aside, we shouldn't have to go Communist to solve this.

IRQ is basically a priority thing for hardware. Perhaps you have many items connected to USB Hubs and the PC doesn't know how to prioritize them right. When you reinstall OSes, the old files are overwritten but some stays. Do a clean install after zero filling hard drive. 1) Make a reinstall DVD 2) Find your Key Code (from COA or use Magic Jelly Bean to find it) 3) Burn a DBAN (Dariks Boot and Nuke) disc, and quick erase HDD (overwrites whole HDD with zeros) (disconnected thumb drives, so they don't get overwritten) 4) Reinstall OS If you upgraded to Win 10, make a reinstall DVD of that. Your Win 7/8 license has upgraded to a Win 10 license. Odds are it might not be broken hardware, sometimes when you add a second OS or resize partition you get weird errors.

Doesn't seem odd that the government doesn't seems to have any interest in making more major highways? I mean we got tons of people unemployed and a massive food stamps debt. Why not get the construction workers out and build more highways? Pennsylvania has plenty of open spacing to expand it's highway system especially in Lancaster and York Counties since there are inbound counties. New Jersey needs more major highways too, as the shore traffic is insane sometimes. If the government offers three times market price for rural land to expand highways, why shouldn't they force residences to take it or leave it. As long as they are only using it for municipal needs and not private enterprise. Then they have just cause, right? More highways would attract more inbound residences, rather then people fleeing NJ + PA on average. Sorry Gun Touting Fanatics and Farmers, if we need more highways get over it. Take off the tin foil hats, there is no government conspiracy with building more highways in Oregon. I would use Google Maps to make proposed highways, but I doubt NJ + PA Gov would listen to a random civilian. Maybe it's worth a shot submitting a Google Maps file to them?

Well they never did switch from pound to euro so I guess this was coming sooner or later. Perhaps it will strengthen UK, rather then them redistribute wealth to poorer EU nations (Greece ect.). Are the Scottish happy with this, or do they still want independence?

Forgot to mention one of the PCI-E slots is used by WIFI card. I'll go single powerful card route. Will wait to see what RX 480 has to offer. Overall the specs seem worth the price, at the very least to should drive down cost of last year models. What are you thoughts on a cube shaded case? I don't plan to use many 5.25 external drives. Maybe a Fan Controller + Supermulti drive. No need for 3.5 floppy/card reader already got usb card reader/writer. If I'm going to go through the whole disassembly and reassembly route, might want to have outstanding airflow. Cube cases seem to offer more 140/200mm fans, plus they are not too high height wise. A few cases I have been looking into: Thermaltake Core X5, Corsair Carbine Air 540, HAF XB. I'd probably pick HAF XB out of those three, cheaper and almost as good as Core X5. Then again if Air 540 was the right price I wouldn't rule it out, would put in a card reader instead of sideways DVD drive though.

Turns out the Radeon HD 7850 is fine and it's google chrome that is issue. Anyways I got two paths to play Doom 4. 1) Buy a second Radeon HD 7850 used for $70 2) Buy a new card and sell off Radeon HD 7850. Someone has got a used GTX 780 for $150, which isn't much more then a GTX 950 or GTX 960. Should be able to fit one 12' video card in, by removing Upper SSD/HDD Caddy. There is a 3.5 external bay too, not sure if I can remove without having to remove the guts first. One of my concerns is ventilation, I have one 120mm fan near motherboard. Planning to add a front 120mm fan later on, once I order the long case fan screws. Side fans are worthless since 120mm would not be strong enough due to physics. (Top, Front or Back would be ideal spots). The top fan slots are too close to motherboard to mount, unless mounting on an angle. So basically the case maxes out at two 120mm fans. If ventilation is major issue then I might consider a HAF series case, Cube shaped cases ect. I would prefer a case with fewer larger fans (140-230mm) vs many 120mm fans. It all depends if the Ostrog case will not turn into a steam room with two cards or one higher end one. Computer specs: Enermax Ostrog Mid Tower (Black and White model) OCZ ModxStream 600w Semi Modular dual rail (80 Plus) I7 2600k 16gb RAM 120GB SSD 1TB HDD DVD Drive Radeon HD 7850 (single card) ASUS P8Z68-V ATX Motherboard Windows 7 Pro 64bit

Wow, M$ really left old software in PCs and just found out now that they screwed up? Should have fixed this long ago, lol Or better yet, shut off all ports not in use like Linux and Mac?

Like the others said. PC rebooting back and forth is generally a power supply issue. You can test it with a multi meter or power supply testers (they are like 15 bucks). If you want to rule out bad CPU, load without ram memory if you get never ending beeping the CPU still works. Power off and troubleshoot power supply. Ram sometimes goes bad too, swap it out with a know working set is a good idea. Sometimes with PC repair there is no set answer. You are like a car mechanic who just fixes stuff by process of elimination.

Report EA to your local Attorney General. Odds are all end users wavered there rights to class action or most lawsuits. However, if the Attorney General feels EA is doing a illegal practice regardless of user agreement action will be taken. It's best for the AG to handle it anyways, no average person wants to bother with a lengthy court case unless you got really screwed over big time and it's personal. Like a heinous crime or wrongful death, not EA busting your chops. It's Origins problem they are getting hacked, they need to vet third party stuff better and make better software.

You sure that's isn't your firewall being picky? I had to adjust firewall setting on most anti-virus suites to play video games. Tell your firewall to open up the needed ports for BF4. Then it will stop blocking BF4 from accessing Port (Whatever).

Updated OP. Also want to throw in that generally in a Intel vs AMD cpu battle, Intel always tends to release the latest and greatest stuff then AMD plays catch up. When AMD does finally release something comparable it is obsolete but bigger bang for the buck. I don't want to cram Intel or AMD down anyone throat, I love my I7 2600k but, if you could get a really good deal on a FX 8350 don't let me talk you out of it. 1) My first gaming rig back in early 2000s was a Socket 478 P4 Northwood with a cheapo Geforce 6200. If I could do it over, I'd pick AMD Socket 939 with PCI-Express 1.0, a better case with better ventilation, Modular PSU (back when everyone feared that they were flops). I'd pick a better upper mid range card instead of Geforce 6200 The cost of LGA 775 was too high at this time, not really an option. Specs would have been: AMD 939, Dual Core CPU, 2-4GB RAM, Geforce 7800, 250-500gb HDD ect. Budget was around $400-500. Stayed within budget at but didn't get most bang for buck. 2) My second gaming rig was a AM2+ Athlon 64 6000+ with Geforce 265 SLI (later switched to single 9800+ GTX 1GB) in a pricey Stacker 830 SE case. If I could do it over. I would buy a $100 HAF 922 or HAF 912 over $200 Stacker 830. I'd likely pick a LGA 775, with ATX Size and single powerfully video card. Core 2 Quad would have eaten a AM2+ Athlon 6000+ for lunch. Specs would have been Intel DP35DP Motherboard, Core 2 Duo E Series, 4gb RAM, Geforce 9800+ GTX, HAF 922 or HAF 932 Case. Budget was around $600, stayed within budget. Got good performance but not an epic deal. PC ran old CoD's with flying colors (original, UO, CoD2) 3) My third gaming rig was a AM3 Phenom II X2 555, 4GB RAM, 1TB HDD with Geforce 8800 GTS. If I had to do it over, I'd stick with same motherboard, quad core cpu instead, different case from Stacker 830 custom $150, cheaper and lower wattage psu (using single card). *Note: Did cheap out on GPU since 9800+ died and was going over budget. *Note 2: LGA 1156 + 1155 +1150 was far too pricey CPU's. AM3 or LGA 775 Core 2 Extreme were the only options. Specs would have been: AM3 Phenom II X4, 8GB DDR3 RAM, 1TB HDD, HAF XB or Cube Case?, Geforce 285 or Radeon counterpart. or Specs would have been: Core 2 Extreme, 8GB DDR3 Ram, 1TB HDD, HAF XB or Cube Case?, Geforce 285 or Radeon Counterpart Budget was around ~$800ish, went over budget and had to cut corners on GPU, use spare ODD drive. Should have never paid $150 for fancy computer case or $140 for 850 Watt Modular PSU (only need 500 watt for single card) Got unlucky with some used parts, should have bought more parts at lower prices or bundled (to lower odds of them not working) 4) My fourth and current gaming rig is; i7 2600k, 16gb DDR3-1333 RAM, 1TB HDD + 120 SSD, PCI-e WIFI, Radeon HD 7850, Enermax Ostrog Case. If I'd had to do it over, I'd do it again Only had to add in the Radeon HD 7850 + WIFI. But other then that it was pretty much to my liking. I mean a cuboid shaped case with 200mm fans would have been better, but can't complain for the price. Budget was around $450ish, went under budget. Bought PC around $350ish, bought Radeon HD 7850 for $60 used, Bought Rosewill PCIe WIfi Card for $22. As you can seen I don't really regret going AMD over Intel or vice a versa. My main issues of my builds were actually based off; Costs vs performance, single card vs SLI/Crossfire, full tower vs mid-tower vs cube case ect. Morale of the story is #1 Buy a used Gaming rig, is your most viable bet. I mean if you see a rig you like but it's got a terrible case and a junker video card, but 90% of the rest of the stuff is good. Pull a Dr. Frankenstein and mold it to your needs. #3 Turn Regular PC into Budget Gaming rig, is viable if you are not a hardcore gamer. If you would be happy putting in a GTX 750 or GTX 950 into a Dell XPS 8300/8700 then your on your way to a budget gaming rig, without major work. #6 Rebuild, is viable too if the rig is not too dated. Perhaps the costs of CPUs and Video Cards drop, you could jump from i3 to i5/i7. or from GTX 750 to 960. This option becomes less viable once the rig is like 5+/yrs old #5 Build New. You have to factor in ALL costs. SATA cables, ODDs, thermal paste and stuff that you would generally overlook. It would be ideal if you set aside around $500 or more as a budget and have some spare parts to use. You should likely have already have your case on hand (or narrowed down to three likely ones) and one Optical Drive. Maybe even a spare HDD and some SATA Cables. You will become an opportunist and strike when you see a Black Friday or Cyber Monday sale on New Egg or Micro Center. Otherwise try to find a motherboard + CPU + RAM combo, sometimes people on local ad sites sell the guts as bundles. If AMD has something powerful to offer in CPU and GPU don't rule it out. It's like 25% weaker but 100% cheaper then Geforce and Intel, get the most bang for your buck.

Thanks Go0fLo0p, that tamed the flickering. Every here and there it still does it, but it's not unbearable. I got a Dell 2407WFP monitor, which seems fine for me. Could always upgrade to a LED one with lower millisecond response, once prices drop within reasonable range (like $70-100). SupaDupa, that's one fancy colored card. Makes you want to get a spray can and repaint a case to match it, or get a Nivida Edition case

Will revise OP with, #6 Rebuild. Like Damage-inc said, you could actually make minor upgrades such as CPU, RAM, and Video Card. Or save some of the guts like the HDD's + Case + PSU +ODD/Card Readers and find new guts (Motherboard + CPU +CPU heatsink + RAM + New Case Fans ect.)

Here are a list a possible examples of were you could get the best deal on your next rig. #1 Used gaming rig. Lets say someone has a rig you want but only thing wrong with is video card is a junker or needs a transplant to another case. If the rig doesn't require tons of steps to Frankenstein to your liking this is something to consider. #2 Buying the guts Perhaps someone is sell CPU, memory, and motherboard together. This would rule at trial and error for parts not working. Likely all the parts would work, and you'd pay 50% or less then retail. #3 Turn Regular PC into Budget Gamer Lets say you like the Dell XPS 8300/8700, you could throw in a Dell Branded video card (Radeon or Geforce) or compatible third party card. It would have to be a mid range card (if keeping same case) and you may need to upgrade PSU. But you'd save on OS license costs and trial and error. #4 Roll the Dice You could buy a gaming rig with broken video card or missing some parts, if the price is right. This would be somewhat risky but if costs are low enough, the benefits out-way to risks. #5 Build New You have to take all costs into consideration. You must factor in splurging on fancy hand-painted cases or ultra expense CPUs will add up. I'd have to advise you to keep the total budget within reason. If you shell out 1k for gaming rig, you might be stuck waiting another 6 years before stepping up to the next rig. Instead of every 4 years if you keep the budget reasonable. userbenchmarks is a great site for comparing CPUs and GPUs. As you see many times there, Intel kicks the snot out of AMD CPUs. But those FX 6000s and 8000s are somewhat powerful. #6 Rebuild Two examples of what you may run into. A) You have fairly current parts but need fast/more RAM or better GPU or better CPU (jump from i3 to i7 ect.) In example A , You just swap out some of the guts for new guts. Depending on case design you may not have to fully disassemble to get this to work. You should factor in GPU clearance if upgrading or go the mean and lean route (GTX 950 or Radeon ITX/Compact models). Sometimes you may need a psu upgrade but if it's a single GPU card rig, you'll need around 430-550 watts. You have a system around 4 years old but don't want to 100% new build. You have a really nice case and good psu. Maybe you'll save the large HDD + ODD but the inner guts gotta go (motherboard, cpu, ram, gpu ect.) In example A you only added and remove some guts, in B most guts are replaced. Which adds to the rebuild costs some more. Advice: *Avoid A Series APUs for gaming, they are far too weak compared to FX and Core Series processors *One single powerful card trumps many weaker cards (SLI and Crossfire is a rip off for budget rigs) *Bigger always isn't better; A Full Tower server case might look cool, but a Cuboid case might move air far better (HAF XB, Cuboids, APEVIA QPACK ect.) *Do you really need a GTX 780? Sure a GTX 950/960 can't compare but lean and mean is an option. *Avoid splurging on non crucial stuff, you don't need gold certificated PSU, hand-painted case, and four 1tb HDD's in a budget rig. *If you gotta splurge do it on CPU, Motherboard, and GPU *Check the wiring diagram for motherboard, find out what order to assemble parts into case (if provided). *Water Cooling is not feasible for budget rigs; find a case will good ventilation, and a GPU that doesn't act like a furnace. *ATX vs MATX, pick MATX if it's got all PCI-Express slots. If you need more slots go ATX. *ITX? Fine if it's got onboard MSATA WIFI and x16 PCIe Video Card slot. *AIO vs Giant Heat Sink. The Giant Heat Sink wins due to reliability and being almost on par with AIO's.

Title says it all. Got a Radeon HD 7850 (PowerColor) and it flickers on pages that are very white or just for heck of it. Updated to Radeon Software 16.6.1 still flickering away. Don't really want to have to call M$ tech support, to get permission to make hardware changes. But will if needed to do so. I have a legal version of Windows 7 Pro 64bit OEM. All I want to do is end the flickering, reinstall OS on HDD instead of small SSD (too few space for gaming). If I gotta swap card I was think of one of the following: GTX 750 (kinda a junker but powerful for a tiny card) GTX 760 (compact or regular version) GTX 950 (Meets modern game requirements better then GTX 750) GTX 960 (Seen a few EVGA compact ones) Yeah I'd love a GTX 770 or 780 but only have two 120mm fans in case and lack enough room for 780 jumbo cards. PC Specs: Enermax Ostrog Mid Tower Asus P8Z68-V Motherboard i7 2600k 16gb DDR3 1333 RAM 120 SSD 1TB HDD Radeon HD 7850 DVD Drive Windows 7 Pro 64bit OEM

I've heard that most of the newer games are match making and don't have server browser. Like BO3 and some Modern Warfares. Any one know of some newer ones with server browser/dedicated servers? Can't see myself playing match making games with hacker infested matches, that's why I'm done with PS3. Insurgency, Battlefield Series, ARMA Series, and American's Army Proving Grounds come to mind. Did I miss any other good ones? I should be able to run just about any current games (unless they drop Win 7 Support). Specs are: Win 7 Pro 64-bit 16gb DDR3 RAM 1tb HDD + SDD Radeon HD 7850 i7 2600k Open to just about any good FPS game. Would prefer like 8-30 player limit. Might want to avoid large matches like 100 players unless you guys think my Wireless-N dual band PCI-Express card can handle it. Less interested in F2P games that sucker you into buying in-game upgrades.

The earlier versions didn't work due to coding errors but I think they are all fixed pretty much. Keep getting UDP errors when trying to host. Must be good sign since I wouldn't even get those errors if it mod was unplayable in dedicated.

Could use a few beta testers to hosts a dedicated server. Can be for a minute or so, just want to find out if runs in dedicated. My ISP gave me junk Gateway that doesn't open up the ports. Ether that or my ISP is sticking it to me, so I gotta upgrade to a business plan for the opened ports? http://www.moddb.com/mods/merciless-2-v30 Staff approved the Merciless Mod 2 V3.4 Public Beta download link. It's no eXtreme+ mod but I'm aiming to make something almost as epic in it's own way. Will likely post download on XI and Megagames tomorrow.

Perhaps in a few months I'll help out. I want to finish development of CoD2 Merciless Mod 2 V3+ Project first. Also I want to make sure I get a new PC that exceedes minimum requirements, instead of something that just barely plays it. My current gaming rig is far off and does a mediocre job of running CoD4.