Pegleg302

That was great! You had me until the alternate names!!!

I think it is a Thompson, but the trigger guard looks different from other TC hawkins I have seen. Maybe an Italian, like Interarms. One of the guys at work found the complete lock and stock in the landfill. It was in bad shape, slightly warped, and covered with sea gull shit by the time I got it. I bought a Green Mountain .50 cal. barrel for it, and took my 4x Leupold off my .22. It's killed lots of deer. I use 295 gr. Powerbelts, as they do LOTS more damage than the 320 gr. Lee r.e.a.l. bullets I used to cast.

It really helps to have a clunker tower or laptop around to test stuff. Even if they only have an on board VGA, you can still use a VGA to HDMI adapter to test stuff. See if your community has an electronics recycling program, and bring the mates running the show coffee,tea, or donuts. Get on their good side, and you can usually get some older stuff to use for testing. It worked for me, I also got a 15" LCD monitor that is really handy for testing, and takes up a shit load less space than a CRT.

Here is my love I spent deer season with. Funny thing, she never complained when I rubbed oil on her.

what is the path to save with XP?

Hi all, a friend sent me this link, if you own a firearm and don't have the manual, you will probably find it here! Sorry I can't paste the link, Firefox can be a pain in the ass sometimes... http://stevespages.com/page7b.htm Match season starts this week-end,hopefully not too much snow in the pits!! http://stevespages.com/page7b.htm

Here is my rattly old truck on the way to the bone yard, we used to call it 'the cheese grater' till I tore the front axle off on the on ramp to rt 17.lol P.S. if you think you are safe hiding behind a vehicle when being shot at, think again. That was a '61, had some tough steel compared to the shit out there now, and most of those rounds went through the other side of the bed first.

I went to Mitsubishi EFI school in Bridgeport, not too far from there. Jersey is so weird we got our own magazine that says so. WEIRDNJ.COM has some pretty disturbing and fun facts about this screwey state we live in.

I work at The land fill In Sussex County, lotsa kooky stuff happens in Jersey. I lived in Brick and Point Pleasant when I was a kid.can't figure out how to upload my car pic from Photo bucket.....

I did have a cat go bad in my Bassani X pipe, the wrap that supported the matrix started to deteriorate. When it got hot, the stainless case swelled enough to let it rattle, and it almost sounded like a rod knock, Very annoying!!

There are some nice 50 year olds out there, sorry I'm too old to remember their names..................................

Does anyone in your neighborhood have one? You could ask them before you pay for a test hole, or maybe the town engineer will know the height of the water table for your area. I put up a 21' round pool, as in-grounds will lower resale on houses in my area. Some people don't want to be bothered.

I'm from Jersey too. Maybe when you drilled the hole in the exaust pipe and ran that tube into the trunk to take care of that guy in there you forgot to plug the hole up. Just sayin', shit like that happens all the time, but mostly with Caddy's. Hey deerejon, my computer fell offa fork lift,no shit.....

Any pictures?

If the sound is happening when you are not moving, it could be a broken baffle in the muffler, or loose heat shield on the outside of the exaust system. I usually use a rubber mallet to tap on the pipes to isolate the source. Often a heat shield on a cat will start to rot away from its mounting points and make a really annoying sound. P.S. does it rattle at White Castle? sorry, I couldn't resist..........

How do the warrantees compare? The details and fine print of both should also be considered, and the reputations of the service departments in case you do have a warranty issue.

Sounds like you are getting very good advice here. the trans temp is a big deal, and I had a Autometer trans temp guage on my '73 F100, and my '79 Bronco. It was a very good investment. The trans pan drain plug kit from B&M let me install the temp sending unit easily, while also giving me an easy way to drain the oil from my C6 trans. If you don't remember the last trans fluid change, do it before any long trips, and while you have the pan down, you can either weld in a bung for the sender (usually 1/8" npt) or install the drain kit. For the trailer part, always use dielectric grease on the trailer plugs before they turn green. If you can, borrow an infa-red digital thermometer, and take some readings of your trailer bearings after a long run. This will save money and wasted time on the side of the road (been there!) if you haven't gone over the bearings yet. Bearing buddies are a good investment too. I almost forgot, tongue weight is a big deal with a loaded trailer being pulled by a smallblock truck, so you should read up on how to check your specific trailer requirement, Featherlite should have it at their site.

Hi all, I have for sale 1 set 22/250 RCBS full length 2 die set part #10601 in like new condition, shell holder not included, 1 set RCBS primer pocket swager combo,part #09495 in good used condition, 1 set REDDING full length 284 Winchester 2 die set part #80141 ,no shell holder included, very lightly used, I only loaded 100 rounds with these dies.1 set REDDING full length 243 Winchester 2 dies set with shell holder in good,used condition, part #80114, and 1 set RCBS 9mm Luger 3 die carbide with 2 shell holders, in like new condition, part #20509.I will sell these at $15.00 each set,plus shipping and ship via USPS, unless you want UPS, but they charge too much to ship light stuff. I use PAYPAL for payment, and I can list as Buy It Now on Ebay so you can have buyer protection if you want. I am currently clearing out some of my reloading equipment that I am not using any more, and will probably have some more stuff to sell in the future, let me know what you are looking for, I will try to help. Thanks,Pegleg.

me too

o.k., my newest GM trans manual ('89) doesn't show a pressure tap (port to read hyd. pressure) but my old manual ('67) did. It only shows line pressure, so it probably wouldn't help narrow it down to an individual clutch leak. All three clutch packs are engaged in third gear. Is the slipping only occurring during the 2-3 shift, and then third locks in after that?

Happy Birthday!

Can you return the universal one if it doesn't fit? Does the Kia dealer have a direct fit one available at a reasonable price? If you have torches and a welder you could make the universal one fit, or check for one on a wrecked Sadona at a savage yard or Ebay.

From what I have read, most third gear slip issues are related to direct clutch/reverse clutch slippage. I will check my manuals at work to see if there is a pressure tap for third gear clutch pack pressure. Some guys are using the Trans-Go shift kit , but I think it won't help for long, you can't usually repair a trans with the contents of an envelope or bottle for very long. You might want to find a rebuilt or a good core from the bone yard and do it your self. If your vacuum pump is worn out, you will have a hard brake pedal, unless you have hydra-vac. I think that big blonde chick may have hydra-vac too,just sayin'.

My auto parts store I deal with at work started selling coated brake lines, in the normal wrong length that makes you buy more than you need and have to cut and double flare, just like the old ones! At least they have a durable coating on them, as they salt the hell out of the roads here. Some of the large part distributors such as Jegs and Summit Racing sell stock parts at a good discount. It helps alot if you have part numbers though, as the stock parts can be a bitch to search online with out them.

If you have a volt meter, you can check if you are getting around 12vdc to the motor itself. This eliminates alot of other items like the switch or resistor. I have seen alot of these problems related to leaves and pine needles getting into the evaporator case, clogging the drain, and causing ice-up issues. The water in the case, over time, will cause the resistor/diode components to corrode or loose contact. It always pays to visually inspect the resistor whether the motor is puked or not. Corrosion on the resistor can also cause intermitant issues, like hitting a pothole and it works, then cuts out. The voltmeter won't lie, I use it first, then work back to the switch, as long as the fuse/circuit breaker/ relay are o.k. If the blower is real bad, one of those items may cut out as soon as you replace the fuse. You can use an ammeter on the fuse block to measure the draw, but most homeowner ones only go to 10 amps,so be careful of that, unless you have an old analog one, then you can pull a probe out of the fuse block if it goes to pin the needle real quick with the fan on low. Hope this helps,Peg.