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2000 Grand Cherokee


Cpt.TennealXI

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Hey all...have a 2000 Grand Cherokee that the blower for the heat,def.etc...just quit today on me.Anyone know if there is a relay or fuse i can check before I let the dealer root around and charge me by the hour?...lol

Thanks in advance,

Tenneal

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odd that it just stopped as most times it makes noise first then stops later....also there is a blower resistor and more times then not you will lose low speed or high and not have all blower motor speeds..... ask google......2000 cherokee blower motor fuse.....you will find some links there that will help ....maybe you can do your self ....good luck

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more than likley it is the blower motor resister it should be located next to the  blowere motor "

Underneath the dash on the passenger side, you will see a metal plate with a wire clip and 4 wires leading out... (it's shape is sort of a cross between elliptical and diamond) remove the wire clip and you see 4 metal tabs. Remove the 2 bolts and the resistor is attached to the other side of the plate.

You must first remove the glove compartment to see the resistor"   the info in the quoptes is for a 99 but shouldnt be too diff check the electrical conter for the blower motor resistor  most of the time it gets burnt  and loses contact take a look there to see if that is the cause

 

 

 

 

does any speed work on the control?

 

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Well consider it the blower motor, either now or later. I did have one that iced up one time so bad it was the fuse.

 

Otherwise that fuse blows for a reason Wink

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Thx for the quick response guys,much appreciated.Smile

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the reson i say check the resistor as it gets very hot during operation  as that is why it is located  it the path of the air to cool it down

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watch the fuse or "relay"  Cool

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i HAD THE SAME ISSUE ON MY Older one, was the CPS

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If you have a volt meter, you can check if you are getting around 12vdc to the motor itself. This eliminates alot of other items like the switch or resistor. I have seen alot of these problems related to leaves and pine needles getting into the evaporator case, clogging the drain, and causing ice-up issues. The water in the case, over time, will cause the resistor/diode components to corrode or loose contact. It always pays to visually inspect the resistor whether the motor is puked or not. Corrosion on the resistor can also cause intermitant issues, like hitting a pothole and it works, then cuts out. The voltmeter won't lie, I use it first, then work back to the switch, as long as the fuse/circuit breaker/ relay are o.k. If the blower is real bad, one of those items may cut out as soon as you replace the fuse. You can use an ammeter on the fuse block to measure the draw, but most homeowner ones only go to 10 amps,so be careful of that, unless you have an old analog one, then you can pull a probe out of the fuse block if it goes to pin the needle real quick with the fan on low. Hope this helps,Peg.

 

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On my brothers 2000 dual control heaters, same thing. He googled it and it seems to be a real problem with those years.

 

The blend control door hangs (part of the heater box) and causes the motor or switch to over volt and fry. We got lucky and fixed the switch but the door is disconnected and controled by a string! Boo! Ghetto style. Would cost about $800 to fix at the dealer but can be done by any reasonably competant backyard mechanics.

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I'm sure it's the resistor,they used to die and would leave high operational but they went to a solid state board and it fries.Have replaced hundreds of them. They do have blend door probs but usually you'll get no a/c or heat(one or the other-but fan will till blow.

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there diffinitely is a fan blower relay and 1 for the 3 or 4 speed switch , and like the others said there should have

been a noise first which if there wasn't then the blower is fine and the problem lies in the power

Edited by PSYCOKILLER
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