dawgy Posted April 8, 2011 Member ID: 179 Group: ***- Inactive Clan Members Followers: 27 Topic Count: 96 Topics Per Day: 0.02 Content Count: 1055 Content Per Day: 0.18 Reputation: 373 Achievement Points: 6829 Solved Content: 0 Days Won: 1 Joined: 09/02/09 Status: Offline Last Seen: March 29 Birthday: 12/07/1981 Device: iPhone Posted April 8, 2011 about 6 months ago my explorer just died on the side of the road out of nowhere tried to start again and just turns over and nothing happened... so i get it towed home and change a few things.... electronic ignition control module... coil packs.... new battery.... new fuel pump and filter..... still dead.... right now i can turn on the truck and no check engine light comes on and no power to fuel pump... maybe a bad relay?? i checked the interia switch and its not tripped.... so any ideas what next??? plus i dont know if it might of fucked something up but when it first happened my buddy said all the relays were the same so he switched them all around... is this not true?? Awards
SGTDANKO Posted April 8, 2011 Member ID: 3214 Group: **- Inactive Registered Users Followers: 27 Topic Count: 206 Topics Per Day: 0.04 Content Count: 2362 Content Per Day: 0.49 Reputation: 50 Achievement Points: 14004 Solved Content: 0 Days Won: 0 Joined: 02/21/12 Status: Offline Last Seen: July 4, 2015 Birthday: 06/23/1981 Posted April 8, 2011 if you are not getting any power to the fuel pump have you checked the fuses ? the fuel pump fuse sounds like you have changed what i would have checked take some carb cleaner spry it into the throttle body and try to start it if it fires it is a fuel prob make sure you are getting fire have on of your buddies hold their finger on a plug wire lol
X-RayXI Posted April 9, 2011 Member ID: 133 Group: ++++ Senior Admin Followers: 77 Topic Count: 602 Topics Per Day: 0.11 Content Count: 6896 Content Per Day: 1.20 Reputation: 1376 Achievement Points: 44161 Solved Content: 0 Days Won: 3 Joined: 09/02/09 Status: Offline Last Seen: 10 hours ago Birthday: 12/12/1971 Device: Windows Posted April 9, 2011 In no WAY I am a car repair kinda guy, but clean the sparks and see if they get filty again by starting it. I had to replace this one day. Rotor house Awards
Pegleg302 Posted April 9, 2011 Member ID: 2119 Group: **- Inactive Registered Users Followers: 0 Topic Count: 6 Topics Per Day: 0.00 Content Count: 80 Content Per Day: 0.02 Reputation: 0 Achievement Points: 461 Solved Content: 0 Days Won: 0 Joined: 01/11/11 Status: Offline Last Seen: Never Birthday: 09/11/1957 Posted April 9, 2011 Did you check for codes before you started? Do you have a mouse problem where you park? Look to see if any insulation is missing off the hood, or any mouse nests on the intake manifold, this is a sure sign those little bastards are under your hood, and they eat the insulation off of wires especially in winter. Here is a link for doing EECIV self tests if you don't have a scanner. http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13
Nutcutter Posted April 9, 2011 Member ID: 1540 Group: **- Inactive Registered Users Followers: 13 Topic Count: 40 Topics Per Day: 0.01 Content Count: 856 Content Per Day: 0.16 Reputation: 100 Achievement Points: 4812 Solved Content: 0 Days Won: 0 Joined: 06/28/10 Status: Offline Last Seen: May 6, 2017 Birthday: 09/20/1969 Posted April 9, 2011 Well I dont think the relays are all the same but you are usually safe if they look the same. When mine died on me a while back a friend of mine said bang on the bottom of the tank with a rubber hammer a few times to rattle the pump a bit. If the pump starts working then replace it. Sure enough thats what it was. But if the pump quits when its running it may make no difference. Usually you can get to the fuel pump connector to check if voltage is there. On my GM they had a problem with the connector itself and the new pump came with a replacement. Lastly if your half way reasonable you can always dump a small bit of gas in the intake and see if it starts for a sec. That will eliminate a lot of things, and you can concentrate on just the fuel issue. Crap I didnt see you replaced the pump! I would still try the gas test though.
Batman243 Posted April 9, 2011 Member ID: 2005 Group: **- Inactive Registered Users Followers: 0 Topic Count: 1 Topics Per Day: 0.00 Content Count: 7 Content Per Day: 0.00 Reputation: 0 Achievement Points: 45 Solved Content: 0 Days Won: 0 Joined: 11/29/10 Status: Offline Last Seen: Never Birthday: 11/26/1963 Posted April 9, 2011 does the engine actually turn over, but just wont start?I mean cranks multiple revolutions....with a good hot battery...the way it sounds also...a normal sounding crank, or a real fast, whining as it cranks...they were also bad for having bad oilers in the engine which could mean bad news..as for check engine lights..... wont come on if its a fuel problem usually...I have operated a Ford Salvage Yard for bout 8 years now, and have heard or had bout any scenario you can think of...and I also drive an Explorer daily, so heres the common things that you might want to check....you say the fuel pump isnt getting fire...how did you check it?...tester?...or just listen for it to kick in?....the above advice to spray carb cleaner and see if it will run would be the first thing to try...Explorers are bad for plug and plug wire misfires, make them run like crap, but usually they will still run....try bypassing the interia switch..run a wire and connect the wires straight, have seen this before, bad switch=not kicked=still bad....ground wires...no ground to fuelpump=no start=no fire...hope this helps...I have a Ford guy who works with me that is really good on this stuff, and I'll ask his opinion if you dont get it fixed...
Pegleg302 Posted April 9, 2011 Member ID: 2119 Group: **- Inactive Registered Users Followers: 0 Topic Count: 6 Topics Per Day: 0.00 Content Count: 80 Content Per Day: 0.02 Reputation: 0 Achievement Points: 461 Solved Content: 0 Days Won: 0 Joined: 01/11/11 Status: Offline Last Seen: Never Birthday: 09/11/1957 Posted April 9, 2011 Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground. See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles...-iv_codes.html for a description of the test connector. If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. A tire pressure gauge can also be used if you have one - look for 37-40 PSI. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability: A.) Tripped inertia switch – press reset button on the inertia switch. The hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter. C.) Clogged fuel filter D.) Failed fuel pump E.) Blown fuse link in wiring harness. Use a voltmeter to measure the voltage drop across them. There should be less than .75 volt drop across a fuse link. F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove vacuum line from regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while pump is running. The electrical circuit for the fuel pump has two paths, a control path and a power path. The control path consists of the inertia switch, the computer, and the fuel pump relay coil. It turns the fuel pump relay on or off under computer control. The switched power (red wire) from the ECC relay goes to the inertia switch (red/black wire) then from the inertia switch to the relay coil and then from the relay coil to the computer (tan/ Lt green wire). The computer provides the ground path to complete the circuit. This ground causes the relay coil to energize and close the contacts for the power path. Keep in mind that you can have voltage to all the right places, but the computer must provide a ground. If there is no ground, the relay will not close the power contacts. The power path picks up from a fuse link near the starter relay. Fuse links are like fuses, except they are pieces of wire and are made right into the wiring harness. The feed wire from the fuse link (orange/ light blue wire) goes to the fuel pump relay contacts. When the contacts close because the relay energizes, the power flows through the contacts to the fuel pump (light pink/black wire). The fuel pump has a black wire that supplies the ground to complete the circuit. Remember that the computer does not source power for any actuator or relay, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit. this article is from stangnet.com
dawgy Posted April 9, 2011 Member ID: 179 Group: ***- Inactive Clan Members Followers: 27 Topic Count: 96 Topics Per Day: 0.02 Content Count: 1055 Content Per Day: 0.18 Reputation: 373 Achievement Points: 6829 Solved Content: 0 Days Won: 1 Joined: 09/02/09 Status: Offline Last Seen: March 29 Birthday: 12/07/1981 Device: iPhone Author Posted April 9, 2011 holy shit thanks for all the responses when i get time this weekend i will take these suggestions and post back thankyou all!!!! Awards
PSYCOKILLER Posted March 1, 2012 Member ID: 2705 Group: **- Inactive Registered Users Followers: 11 Topic Count: 16 Topics Per Day: 0.00 Content Count: 149 Content Per Day: 0.03 Reputation: 24 Achievement Points: 954 Solved Content: 0 Days Won: 0 Joined: 07/29/11 Status: Offline Last Seen: April 14, 2013 Birthday: 07/24/1961 Posted March 1, 2012 My suspicions are the thermal coupler , these are like relay fuses they have a clear top with either a red or green and sometimes yellow strip , its like this 1 fat wire turning into 1 thin wire and back to a fat wire thus the thermal coupler and are usually after the fuse block , and have a hearty ceramic base , and even if you are not inclined troubleshooting is a backwards process and only 3 things are needed for a car to run : 1. fuel 2. air and 3. electricity and always start from the source then go backwards for all 3 . hope this was helpful if you have anymore questions don't hesitate to ask. David Asturino YOUR FRIENDLY NEIGHBORHOOD PSYCOKILLER
dawgy Posted March 1, 2012 Member ID: 179 Group: ***- Inactive Clan Members Followers: 27 Topic Count: 96 Topics Per Day: 0.02 Content Count: 1055 Content Per Day: 0.18 Reputation: 373 Achievement Points: 6829 Solved Content: 0 Days Won: 1 Joined: 09/02/09 Status: Offline Last Seen: March 29 Birthday: 12/07/1981 Device: iPhone Author Posted March 1, 2012 Just a update I fixed this I had a wiring harness rubbing on my manifold causing all this shit Awards
Damage_inc- Posted March 3, 2012 Member ID: 2048 Group: ***- Inactive Clan Members Followers: 0 Topic Count: 294 Topics Per Day: 0.06 Content Count: 6689 Content Per Day: 1.27 Reputation: 4709 Achievement Points: 48999 Solved Content: 0 Days Won: 5 Joined: 12/15/10 Status: Offline Last Seen: November 29, 2023 Birthday: 05/30/1967 Posted March 3, 2012 for the cost of at least half the parts you threw at it you could have had it diagnosed properly.Sounds like computer or wiring problem.gl Awards
Nutcutter Posted March 3, 2012 Member ID: 1540 Group: **- Inactive Registered Users Followers: 13 Topic Count: 40 Topics Per Day: 0.01 Content Count: 856 Content Per Day: 0.16 Reputation: 100 Achievement Points: 4812 Solved Content: 0 Days Won: 0 Joined: 06/28/10 Status: Offline Last Seen: May 6, 2017 Birthday: 09/20/1969 Posted March 3, 2012 Just a update I fixed this I had a wiring harness rubbing on my manifold causing all this shit Well at least you got it sorted!
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