Timmah!

Yeah, not worth the hassle.

I just need to learn how to integrate it with my home oven.. Need to know what I'm doing before playing with electricity.

It's amazing. I also parbake the crust for 8 minutes & let cool before adding the filling; the browning & caramelization give it a richer toasty flavor & prevents sogginess. Since I'm using glass, I reduce the baking temperature by 25°F & place a cartouche of parchment paper in the bottom of the dish to facilitate removal. Finally, I omit the flour from the recipe for a creamier result. Here's the recipe: https://www.allrecipes.com/recipe/8350/chantals-new-york-cheesecake/?utm_source=emailshare&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=mobilesharebutton2

I bought a couple of these very devices some time ago; one I use for controlling the temperature ramp on my homemade coffee roaster; splicing this into a home oven however, isn't practical.

Sometimes; but I usually prefer the taste of just the cheesecake.

No springform pan, no water bath, just a Pyrex casserole dish and attentiveness. Since it's a custard, I do babysit the oven temperature during the 50 minute bake, monitoring the temperature with a probe & manually turning the oven off & on to keep the temperature between 323°F & 327°F. Well worth the effort. Most home ovens cycle +/- 30°F from setpoint, meaning 60°F swings in temperature during the bake; unacceptable.

Been playing a lot of Rust lately; this is some post-apocalyptic parkour, running the monument The Dome. Message me if you want to play; am happy to teach anyone the ropes.

I've heard country music called farm emo; I lol'd.

Here you go; he's accepting homesteaders with an offer of a 6-month to 1 year free trial period with option to buy land or home if afterward interested.

Look-up the ratings on psu's on websites like Amazon, Newegg, etc. Search for the most-purchased psu's & see like the top 3 sellers' ratings. Then search by top 3 highest rated & you'll usually see overlap of most purchased & highest rated. It's a straight forward task, just need to invest a little time & effort. I go by customers' ratings, not by reviewers who might be compensated to shill a product.

EVGA, Corsair, Seasonic are the 3 I've used in every build. Don't go just by make though; research the particular model's reviews & ratings to ascertain its worthiness.

I live near Fort Knox, KY. The closest Microcenter is in Cincinnati, Ohio. 2 years ago they had a deal that made the 300 mile round trip worth the drive...plus, I was in the mood for a road trip. It's located surprisingly conveniently right off the exit ramp. Having built many rigs over the past 40 years- how the time does fly- I've learned through experience that you want the most robust psu to support your components; if some power calculator tells you X, add even more capacity. I've probably been building rigs longer than the person that wrote that power requirement calculator has been alive. If you're gonna spend your hard-earned money on a pc build, you want to BEEF UP that PSU beyond any question of its ability to support all those pricey components. There's a significant difference in the quality of the rails on higher tier psu's that enhances their ability to support consistent load demands & fluctuations efficiently. If I'm spending $2,000+ on components, I'm happy to spend 10% of that total on a rock solid foundation of the whole system: the psu. Not bragging rights, but peace of mind. The same psu I bought is currently on sale for $30 less than I paid a little over 2 years ago. Here's the link, plus the receipt for my build parts purchase, minus the 6950xt gpu I bought on Amazon. It comes with a 10 year warranty: https://a.co/d/39OvFoO

Yeah, when he responded 850 watt to my query, that would be my first issue to address. Built my last rig with 1,000 Watt psu & wish I would've gone a little bigger, although no problems in the 2 years since building it. Always want plenty more power than the system draws to account for PSU efficiency, fluctuations & to give room for any future upgrades & hardware additions. @Nycz Come off $100 or so & replace that PSU. Get you at least a 1,000 Watt Gold rated modular.

Check your system logs for errors using event viewer & system monitor. Google the error codes for clarification, if needed. Download & run a hardware monitoring tool like HwInfo to help find issues.

What capacity power supply unit in your computer?