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Posted

Question for you car guys.

 

My clutch slipped twice on the way home tonight.  :cry:   ( first time )

 

How many miles more do you think I can get out of the clutch?

 

1992 Miata

164K miles

last replacement: unknown

 

I'm a pretty good driver btw. I don't drive it hard and I always do RPM matching when shift both up and down. (and I don't use engine braking)

 

 

Me and my car:  :wub: 52fac37697cfd_driving_ani.gif



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Posted (edited)

 

 

if its slipping you may have months left unknown-2-6 depending on how you drive now- about $900 American dollars to replace-btw check your clutch fluid first-

Edited by Damage_inc-


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Posted (edited)

 

 

if its slipping you may have months left unknown-2-6 depending on how you drive now- about $900 American dollars to replace-btw check your clutch fluid first-

 

Oh, I would definitely be replacing it myself. I'm a DIY kind'a guy. I do all my own car work.

 

I checked and a replacement kit (oem or comparable) is $150 ( +/- $20)     .... but I'm broke lol

 

 

 

Also...  a miata is Rear-drive so it would be a lot easier than that video.

Edited by eidolonFIRE


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Posted (edited)

1. Check your slave cylinder and see if it is sweating around the seals at all. You could be losing pressure via a small leak or you could have a tiny air bubble in the clutch fluid and will cause slipping. Any more air than a tiny bubble can cause complete clutch failure.

2. If the fluid is old and has lost its weight (thinned out) you can lose clutch pressure.

3. Make sure clutch fluid cap is sealing properly and there are no contaminants in the reservoir.

 

Those are the cheapest quick check/fixes.

 

After those all check out. Some vehicles (older) you can adjust the clutch to get maximum usage. If you have the ability to adjust it on this vehicle it will run like new for years yet. Some adjust on the clutch housing and some adjust simply on the clutch pedal. Unlikely on the pedal as that would only apply to having a clutch cable and most vehicles in the last 30 years are hydraulic clutches (fluid pressure)

 

If you cannot adjust this clutch on this vehicle and all the other things check out then the next step is replacement. 

 

Good luck,

Hope this helps.

Edited by KingStinger!


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Posted

1. Check your slave cylinder and see if it is sweating around the seals at all. You could be losing pressure via a small leak or you could have a tiny air bubble in the clutch fluid and will cause slipping. Any more air than a tiny bubble can cause complete clutch failure.

2. If the fluid is old and has lost its weight (thinned out) you can lose clutch pressure.

3. Make sure clutch fluid cap is sealing properly and there are no contaminants in the reservoir.

 

Those are the cheapest quick check/fixes.

 

After those all check out. Some vehicles (older) you can adjust the clutch to get maximum usage. If you have the ability to adjust it on this vehicle it will run like new for years yet. Some adjust on the clutch housing and some adjust simply on the clutch pedal. Unlikely on the pedal as that would only apply to having a clutch cable and most vehicles in the last 30 years are hydraulic clutches (fluid pressure)

 

If you cannot adjust this clutch on this vehicle and all the other things check out then the next step is replacement. 

 

Good luck,

Hope this helps.

 

If the cylinder had a leak and I lost pressure, that would make the clutch fail to disengage.... right?   My problem isn't a spongy clutch... it was slipping in first gear.

 

I don't think "adjusting" the clutch will do anything for a clutch that is worn down to the medal.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong.



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Posted

If the cylinder had a leak and I lost pressure, that would make the clutch fail to disengage.... right?   My problem isn't a spongy clutch... it was slipping in first gear.

 

I don't think "adjusting" the clutch will do anything for a clutch that is worn down to the medal.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong.

If you have a small leak your clutch wont necessarily fail, its only if you have a leak at negative pressure, then air will get in. The slightest tiny bubble can cause a slip but more air than that clutch will fail. Either way it is an issue.

 

If your clutch is worn down to metal then you have answered your own question. You will get now more "safe time" out of it and you should give it immediate attention. 

Now when you say it slip is first gear, is that only when shifting in or out of first gear an no other gear? If it doesnt, you may have a bad transmission. 



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Posted

If you have a small leak your clutch wont necessarily fail, its only if you have a leak at negative pressure, then air will get in. The slightest tiny bubble can cause a slip but more air than that clutch will fail. Either way it is an issue.

 

If your clutch is worn down to metal then you have answered your own question. You will get now more "safe time" out of it and you should give it immediate attention. 

Now when you say it slip is first gear, is that only when shifting in or out of first gear an no other gear? If it doesnt, you may have a bad transmission. 

 

 

Starting off in first. Funny scraping noise from the front and no power to wheels. (remember that it's rear-drive)

 

It only did it twice when starting in first. The second time was much more pronounced and I noticed something fishy was up. Then, I baby'd it all the way home so I didn't get to see if it would in other gears.



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Posted

Hmm. well lets hope it is your clutch. It will be far cheaper... But if the metallic is warn right off the clutch plates and youre down to bare metal, i would assume you would have had issues sooner. But it is more than likely your issue. Im surprised you actually have any clutch at all. 

 

Try dry shifting it. Depress the clutch petal and go in and out of each gear while holding the clutch pedal in. If you can shift freely it may not be the clutch but you should notice some out of the ordinary resistance going in and out of each gear if the clutch is failed/failing



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Posted

Hmm. well lets hope it is your clutch. It will be far cheaper... But if the metallic is warn right off the clutch plates and youre down to bare metal, i would assume you would have had issues sooner. But it is more than likely your issue. Im surprised you actually have any clutch at all. 

 

Try dry shifting it. Depress the clutch petal and go in and out of each gear while holding the clutch pedal in. If you can shift freely it may not be the clutch but you should notice some out of the ordinary resistance going in and out of each gear if the clutch is failed/failing

 

 

I'm not sure I follow. You mean with the engine off and the clutch engaged? I know my car pretty well :) I would get it into maybe one or two gears before I would have to rock the car back and forth to get it to sync a gear. 



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Posted

If your clutch is worn to the point of it slipping then the time to replace it is NOW.If you don't replace it soon you will score the living crap out of the flywheel.Clutch disks use rivets to hold the friction pads in place.Once the material wears down the rivets will tear up the flywheel and you'll either have to replace the flywheel or have it trued up on a lathe.Your clutch is very similar to Brake pads and brake rotor.You know how those get if the pads are worn out and aren't changed rite away don't you?

 

 

 

A flywheel will not crack as fast as a brake disk but it will get some rather large grooves and warp causing the new clutch to wear out and possibly shatter if it were to grab on the edge of a groove or uneven spot.



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Posted

If your clutch is worn to the point of it slipping then the time to replace it is NOW.If you don't replace it soon you will score the living crap out of the flywheel.Clutch disks use rivets to hold the friction pads in place.Once the material wears down the rivets will tear up the flywheel and you'll either have to replace the flywheel or have it trued up on a lathe.Your clutch is very similar to Brake pads and brake rotor.You know how those get if the pads are worn out and aren't changed rite away don't you?

 

 

attachicon.gifxFAl1.jpg

 

A flywheel will not crack as fast as a brake disk but it will get some rather large grooves and warp causing the new clutch to wear out and possibly shatter if it were to grab on the edge of a groove or uneven spot.

This is what i was afraid of... Sigh. I dont have money mright now.

 

This also explains why i've always heard that you usually replace the flywheel at the same time as the clutch, just incase its warped. ( and that as the clutch has worn down unevenly, the flywheel has warped to fit it. )



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Posted

You can have your flywheel trued up on a lathe.A machine shop will usually charge around $40 to turn it down and check it for cracks.

 

My brother ran his 95 Mazda MX6 for about 4 months with a slipping clutch.He had to replace the flywheel when he put the new clutch in.I told him not to do it but he got one of those Exedy light weight racing flywheels and a Act stage 2 clutch.Now every time the dumb ass comes to a stop light he stalls it.The clutch grabs HARD.He churps the tires in 4th and 5th But as soon as he pushes the clutch in it will try to stall.

 

He's gota do some tuning to the engine so it doesn't stall but man it friggin revs alot quicker.It's got the JDM 2.5l KLZE V6 in it.



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Posted

You can have your flywheel trued up on a lathe.A machine shop will usually charge around $40 to turn it down and check it for cracks.

 

My brother ran his 95 Mazda MX6 for about 4 months with a slipping clutch.He had to replace the flywheel when he put the new clutch in.I told him not to do it but he got one of those Exedy light weight racing flywheels and a Act stage 2 clutch.Now every time the dumb ass comes to a stop light he stalls it.The clutch grabs HARD.He churps the tires in 4th and 5th But as soon as he pushes the clutch in it will try to stall.

 

He's gota do some tuning to the engine so it doesn't stall but man it friggin revs alot quicker.It's got the JDM 2.5l KLZE V6 in it.

Yea, i'm not even considering a lite weight fly wheel. Lol


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