2 questions please brakes and oil

[Twinkie 13]

Hello fellow wrench heads.  I have a couple questions to ask you.  I have a 2000 Mustang GT automatic that I bought brand new.  It has 200,000 miles on it now.  I have always used 5w20 synthetic blend oil.  Just about every time I get the oil changed they tell me I should be using 5w30 instead.  The manual that came with the car says 5w20 as well as the oil filler cap on the engine.  I live in north Alabama and it gets hot here in the summer so should I stick with the 5w20 or should I switch to 5w30 because of the mileage and heat of summer?

 

Next is about my brakes.  I had all 4 corners done with new rotors and pads about 3 months ago.  I normally would do this myself but can't due to my knee injury. Anyway, the work great and all at light to medium braking but at hard braking they make a horrible grinding sound.  I got the parts from Rockauto and not the cheapo set either.  Any suggestions as to what it might be?  Could it be wheel bearing or caliper guide pin sticking? Any suggestions would be great thanks.

[Dark Asylumn]

it is recommended to run a little thicker oil in hotter environments.  there is a sliding scale the shows what temp range is ideal for that particular brands weights. most people run the same year round  some dont some have extreme seasonal shifts. it will not hurt to run 5 30 in the summer   do what you are comfortable with after finding what temperature range you are normally dealing with

 

edit to 5 30 not 10 30

Edited July 31, 2014 by Dark Asylumn

[BUDMAN]

What kind of pads did they put on ????

[Twinkie 13]

i bought ceramic pads.  Ive never had those pads make that sound before. I was told that one of the rubber boots on the right rear caliper guide pin was torn and the pin had rust on it.  I guess that could make it stick.  I should just buy new pins and boots.

[hxtr]

Don't change your oil weight. If you car asks for 5w20 and you are not leaking oil or burning oil.. don't change a thing.

 

5w20 is a 5 weight oil with 20 weight protection but still a 5 weight oil. 

 

5w30 will be 30 weight protection.

 

10w30 10 weight oil with 30 weight protection. 10 cold.. still 10 hot but protects like a 30. 

[hxtr]

i bought ceramic pads.  Ive never had those pads make that sound before. I was told that one of the rubber boots on the right rear caliper guide pin was torn and the pin had rust on it.  I guess that could make it stick.  I should just buy new pins and boots.

Ceramic are crap.... not recommended. They will cause noise as the pads are very hard.  Only use semi metallic. If it is the last time you are going to use your rotors and you plan to replace.. you can use full metallic but it will eat up the rotor. 

[KaptCrunch]

noise is from the rotor for it's not totally flat due to pad is harder then rotor  and cuts/groove in surface leaving a edge/shoulder width of face of pad

 

all normal for soft rotors

[Dark Asylumn]

Don't change your oil weight. If you car asks for 5w20 and you are not leaking oil or burning oil.. don't change a thing.

 

5w20 is a 5 weight oil with 20 weight protection but still a 5 weight oil. 

 

5w30 will be 30 weight protection.

 

10w30 10 weight oil with 30 weight protection. 10 cold.. still 10 hot but protects like a 30. 

the first number infront of the w stands for the viscosity in winter temperatures. the second number is hot viscosity.   so a 5w 20  act like a 5 weight in cold climates when used in hot environments its the viscosity of a 20

 

 

excerpt from amsoil

 

OK . . .What does a 5W-30 do that an SAE 30 won't?

When you see a W on a viscosity rating it means that this oil viscosity has been tested at a Colder temperature. The numbers without the W are all tested at 210° F or 100° C which is considered an approximation of engine operating temperature. In other words, a SAE 30 motor oil is the same viscosity as a 10w-30 or 5W-30 at 210° (100° C). The difference is when the viscosity is tested at a much colder temperature. For example, a 5W-30 motor oil performs like a SAE 5 motor oil would perform at the cold temperature specified, but still has the SAE 30 viscosity at 210° F (100° C) which is engine operating temperature. This allows the engine to get quick oil flow when it is started cold verses dry running until lubricant either warms up sufficiently or is finally forced through the engine oil system. The advantages of a low W viscosity number is obvious. The quicker the oil flows cold, the less dry running. Less dry running means much less engine wear.

 

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

[hxtr]

the first number infront of the w stands for the viscosity in winter temperatures. the second number is hot viscosity.   so a 5w 20  act like a 5 weight in cold climates when used in hot environments its the viscosity of a 20

 

 

excerpt from amsoil

 

OK . . .What does a 5W-30 do that an SAE 30 won't?

When you see a W on a viscosity rating it means that this oil viscosity has been tested at a Colder temperature. The numbers without the W are all tested at 210° F or 100° C which is considered an approximation of engine operating temperature. In other words, a SAE 30 motor oil is the same viscosity as a 10w-30 or 5W-30 at 210° (100° C). The difference is when the viscosity is tested at a much colder temperature. For example, a 5W-30 motor oil performs like a SAE 5 motor oil would perform at the cold temperature specified, but still has the SAE 30 viscosity at 210° F (100° C) which is engine operating temperature. This allows the engine to get quick oil flow when it is started cold verses dry running until lubricant either warms up sufficiently or is finally forced through the engine oil system. The advantages of a low W viscosity number is obvious. The quicker the oil flows cold, the less dry running. Less dry running means much less engine wear.

 

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

It is all about viscosity....

 

I am wrong on the 20 and 30 part being bad. Better millage with 5w20. 

What you think?

Edited July 31, 2014 by hxtr

[Dark Asylumn]

your backwards on your numbers there   a 5 20 and a 10 20 and a 0 20 are all 3 20 weights at temp   its what happens to them at cold temps that makes them different.  if youre still in texas  i dont think a -w is gonna affect you any  due to your temps hardly ever getting much below the 32 degree mark.  that being said  I only run straight wieght   (sae 20 sae 30) in small engines  eg lawn mowers 4 wheelers  stuff like that.  i am also an endorser of full syn. oil  but my vehicles are considered extreme duty and need all the extra protection I can get.     

 

 

i also use to think zmaxx was just a gimmic  until we put a new i/o motor in out boat and used zmaxx.  at about 20 hrs we had a filter spin off and drain all the oil.  we ran it for about 20 mins no oil and once we got it back in the garage we pulled the pan and head.  that fucker looked brand new  there was not 1 scratch in the bore and the bearings looked beautiful.  since thta point I have run it in all my engines.     I have 243000 miles on a 5.4l v8 gas burner that i pull 16000 lbs with and my gross weight is 23000lbs.  that truck was designed for 11500lbs.   i might not get good mileage but the engine is as strong as it was the first time I pulled with it.

Edited July 31, 2014 by Dark Asylumn

[Twinkie 13]

So should I switch to 5w30 then. My mileage is over 200,000 now. I can't afford for it to crap out on me any time soon.

[Dark Asylumn]

i would use what it calls for which is 5 20.  if you are worried about high mileage all the top brands have formulas designed for those applications.  they have certain additives that are said to condition different parts of the internals.  some say they work some say the dont.  i say if you take care of it properly from day one its going to last you for a  ong time

[BUDMAN]

The new trucks are running 0w-20 with 8.5 qts.......