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Posted

Those are a bitch-I had a guy almost quit when I gave him one of those to do lol.If you take a bar and a hammer and bend the pinch weld on the firewall from underneath, most the time you can get to the upper bell bolts without fucking with the body bolts.(might b hard though if your doin it on the ground.)Either way I dont envy you sirLaughing

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Posted

my back and shoulders are scratched all to hell. stupid brushed concrete lmao.  After looking I think Budman was correct. the bushings are all worn out and collapsed.  amazing how just a inch or 2 makes all the difference.  its raining now so I cant jack the body up. but hopefully tomorrow I can get it dropped.  and thanks for the vote there rogue. I am glad to know even paid mechanics threaten to quit on this beast. Makes me feel a little less useless hahahahaha



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Posted

Yep thats the life of a Mechanic... LOL here now for a short while got somethings going on that need att.

hit me up if you would like to talk about your beast that is kicking your ass....... Smile



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Posted

I am getting offended reading this post.. i dont like American cars.. or others. So can we stop this thread.... lol



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Posted

YAY the bitch is out the bitch is out

cmon guys sing it with me the wicked bitch is out

 

the body bolts wouldnt budge. I mean they are STUCK. like 2 good sockets and a socket wrench as well as a broken box end wrench. but will a little prying on the stub of an exhaust pipe and some luck it just dropped. oh and why would chevy put a tranny brace to the firewall on the very top freakin bellhousing bolt. I mean with the tranny in place you cant get the bolt free from the hole.  that sucker wont be going back in, even it it wasnt all bent and wallered out I wouldnt put that dastardly thing back on. hell with all the braces it has this little 6 inch brace wont do nothing hahahahaha

 

anywho  thanks for helping me remove it. gotta take all the clutch stuff off now but hey am closer to getting it running gain.  hope it slides back up into place



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Posted

hey bud what size hex does it take for the  tranny fill plug.  and also the transfer case fill plug?  please help an idiot out



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Posted

I think its 3/8 but it might take a special socket/size looks like 3/8 but not ....

will check it out in the am at work and post it here.......



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Posted

i know the tranny one is nuge like a 5/8 bolt head would fit it



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Posted

did you google it...... just a thought

and not sure what a  nuge is    LMFAO i KNOW WHAT YOU wanted to say

if thats the case get the bolt and double  nut it and  make your own tool... if you get my drift



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Posted

google like to pull up auto trans even when you specify otherwise. lol  will definitely try that in the mornin  thank you sooooo much



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Posted

hello bud how are you doing .



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Posted

its 11/16 bolt. tried the double nut thing sheared the bolt lmao  will go borrow one from a mechanic in the morning



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Posted

Dark, when you get done you should be "Mister Good Wrench Certified"...LOL...SmileSmile

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Posted
Blackbart
Dark, when you get done you should be "Mister Good Wrench Certified"...LOL...SmileSmile

lmao


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Posted

hey guys this is dark. guess what  get to our destination in eastern ky park the truck at hotel go out an hour or so later and the freakin clutch pedal wont budge. pulled a calf muscle pushing the damn thing in  still didnt budge. broke the connectorfrom master cylinder to pedal.  got a new master ordered be in tomorrow. yay. pulled the master off and the rod is froze solid stuck,  that is a bad master cylinder isnt it.  I so hope so bc I dont have the tools here to pull the tranny.  just let me know if it sounds like a froze master cylinder.  even with it off the rod still wont budge.  thanks in advance



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Posted

bump

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Posted

Did you replace everything new when you did tthe clutch ,except the clutch master cyl ? Just sounds weird that it was working and all of at once stopped working. Did something else make it bind up ?



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Posted

put the new master on. no change still hard as a rock. I guess something else broke probably the freakin slave. again new master is now on and still the pedal wont budge.



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Posted

wow.... I don't think I've ever seen that happen. You should find a new mechanic, lmao! ---Honestly though, in 26 years of wrenching, I have never seen that. I'm pretty sure that wouldn't be hydraulic got to be something bound with the clutch itself.

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Posted

ok figured this shit out.  the new style clip connects they use at the slave cylinder, (has the clip that pops around the connector. well its a peice of shit. you clip the line in, wiggle the line and the clip comes loose and the lind pops off. thats the problem. master is fine slave is fine. just one stupid little clip. going down to advance and give them a cussin. this is sooo freakin cheap grr. I have to find a way to lock the line into the slave.



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Posted

ok got the line to connect up and stay for now. will be going to a machine shop to make a clamp to keep it together.  now my question is, the clutch will not bleed completely. there is no more air in the lines but i cannot get the clutch to disengage completely. it moves alittle but not enough to stop the gears from spinning.  what do I need to do to get the clutch to operate properly.  I hate this truck lol



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Posted

I think you have other problems but those have allways been a pain in the ass to bleed. Try this ,put a clear hose on the bleeder

and put the other end in a bottle with brake fluid in it the hoses  below the level of fluid,and bleed that way. Do you get my drift that way there is now way to suck air back into the system buy make sure you keep the master cyl full at all times.........

Good luck !!!

 

note clear hose is so you can see if there is air in the system



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Posted

i think it is sucking air threw the quick connect am going to build a clamp tomorrow .


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Posted

give yall 3 guesses on why the clutch wouldnt fully disengage? c mon yall can give a few guesses      youll never guess it though lmao


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