Changing Spark Plugs

[Davik]

I have a Pontiac grand am 2003. Is there a guide on how to change the rear plugs? Or does some one know how to? Also, are the car manuals worth it?

[little_old_man]

I found this with a google search.

 

http://www.ehow.com/how_4507506_replace-spark-plugs-pontiac-grand.html

 

Instructions

 

 

• 1 Park the car in cool, shady area and allow the engine to cool.
  
• 2 Remove the parts of the Grand Am engine that hinder access to the spark plugs. For a 2.2 L engine, remove the ignition coil housing. For a 2.4 L engine, remove the bolts that hold the retaining ignition coil and disconnect the electrical connector. Pull the assembly straight up and away from the engine to remove it. For a 3.1 L engine, remove the air cleaner. For a 3.4 L engine, remove the windshield wiper module cover and rotate the engine for service access to the rear spark plugs.
  
• 3 Locate the spark plug wire and grab it by the spark plug boot. Twist the boot in both directions and pull back to remove the wire.
  
• 4 Insert the spark plug socket over the old spark pull and unscrew it from the cylinder well. Remove the old spark plug.
  
• 5 Lubricate the threads of the new spark plug and screw it into the cylinder well.
  
• 6 Test the tension and adjust it to the required setting. It needs to be 15 ft-lbs. for a 2.2 L engine, 16 ft-lbs. for a 2.4 L engine, 13 ft-lbs. for a 3.1 L engine, and 11 ft-lbs. for a 3.L engine.
  
• 7 Reconnect the spark plug wire and twist it to lock the plug in place.
  
• 8 Repeat Steps 3 through 7 for the remaining spark plugs.
  
• 9 Replace all of the parts that were removed from the Grand Am in Step 2 to reach to the spark plugs.
  

[BUDMAN]

Must be a v6 ...rear plugs which motor 3.1 or 3.4 big difference..........to rotate engine #1 make sure trans not in park and e brake applied....... tool hooks up too engine mount

and core support to rotate engine forward to gain access...........................suggest plug wires also while you are there,they canbe damaged during removal

[Davik]

thanks. I think I will hold off on changing them.

[LordOfChaos]

ah do it the old fashion way... clean them and re-gap them... good as new eh

[BUDMAN]

When you clean your spark plugs you just cause more ware concerns ...the new type spark plugs are good for 100.000 miles no problem,unless

you have an engine concern.

[PingLo]

There are only two steps I use anymore. I learned this after taking apart my '91 Daytona Turbo Engine and putting it back together (mostly)

 

Step 1: Take to Dealer or other qualified entity

Step 2: Pay them for their expertise and Pickup car

[BUDMAN]

Good advise Pinglo......can not tell you how many cars/trucks get towed from other shops and my friend was trying to help me........they end up spending more money guessing instead of it being diagnosed correctly......................

[loaderXI]

Davic I run Alldata but from ur ? here must be V-6 if so the are 2 stablizer mounts on front at rad support u can unbolt them which will allow motor to tilt forward then yes coil pack will need to come out and I think map sensor 2 screws 2 bolts and a small hose or 2 then u will have full access to rear plugs with room to spare......100.000 miles until u need to do again.....If u feel u need any more info let me know the engine liters to be more exact with year as well.....

 

 

loADER>XI<

[KaptCrunch]

like bud said add new wires and get the platium plugs for last longer then cheap plugs

 

when installing new plugs start thread by hand only .........if to tight to get hand there use a windsheild washer hose jambed on end of plug

 

note: V6 rear bank passenger side and center is angled to your right and driver side angled to your left (note standing in front of car)

 

also remove spark wire holder with wires as one (1,3,5 wires) and lay on ground to match new ones up

 

use a small flat screw driver to open the spark wires plastic loom holder and take 1 by 1 keeping same spacing as old wire

 

now the fun begins the coilpack ...research you engine size and year below is a sample

[Coorslight]

every time i've done rear plugs in FWD v6. undo the Dog-bone engine mount. ratchet strap from the rear of the intake to core support. u can achieve more room then using the next hole on the dog bone. also just because they are sorta of a hassle to change. i've always replaced with Irridiums or platnums so i never have to deal with them for long time.

 

This is from my truck. cheap plugs. these lasted. a month. maybe 2 of 8 junk in 50-100 miles. champions good for sleds and lawn care equipment but ill never buy another for my cars or trucks.

[KaptCrunch]

every time i've done rear plugs in FWD v6. undo the Dog-bone engine mount. ratchet strap from the rear of the intake to core support. u can achieve more room then using the next hole on the dog bone. also just because they are sorta of a hassle to change. i've always replaced with Irridiums or platnums so i never have to deal with them for long time.

 

This is from my truck. cheap plugs. these lasted. a month. maybe 2 of 8 junk in 50-100 miles. champions good for sleds and lawn care equipment but ill never buy another for my cars or trucks.

 

woah them plugs looks if heavy detotion .......check map sensor/spark knock

[BUDMAN]

That is lack of heat transfer................ are the spark plug holes heli-coiled by chance

[KaptCrunch]

or leaky fuel injector for that cylinder

[loaderXI]

Always Replace With OEM aka factory recommended or you will change the heat range internally and possibly cause head/cylinder damage....I have on the 3.4 Lt. engines seen them eject the plug from the cylinder due to melt down....Once the head was off at the ports for plugs it was so ate away from the heat the head could no longer support the threads for the plug and nothing left to heli coil to....

 

 

Replaced heads problem solved

 

Most engines now a days are made of aluminium and can not take the heat the high performance plugs put out

AND SHOULD ALWAYS CHANGE OUT ON A COLD ENGINE NEVER WHEN IT IS HOT

[google]

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Replace+Spark+Plugs+in+a+Pontiac+2003&oq=Replace+Spark+Plugs+in+a+Pontiac+2003&gs_l=youtube.3...18112.19395.0.20697.5.5.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0...0.0...1ac.1.

[Coorslight]

they were cheap plugs being fried by MSD and i duration cam. needs good good plugs. only brand i've ever seen do that in my engine. 450-500 horse 355 sbc. had few hrs and i never reuse my plugs after any tear down. none of the parts stores carried a platnum or irridum plug for my engine. so i threw cheap ones in it and it dropped 2 cylinders first time down the track. burnout box i was fine but after 330 foot mark just completely died. 4500 only higher it would rev. my shift lights @ 7500. but u get what u pay for i guess

[KaptCrunch]

they were cheap plugs being fried by MSD and i duration cam. needs good good plugs. only brand i've ever seen do that in my engine. 450-500 horse 355 sbc. had few hrs and i never reuse my plugs after any tear down. none of the parts stores carried a platnum or irridum plug for my engine. so i threw cheap ones in it and it dropped 2 cylinders first time down the track. burnout box i was fine but after 330 foot mark just completely died. 4500 only higher it would rev. my shift lights @ 7500. but u get what u pay for i guess

 

ever tried surface gap plugs, one with out ground tang

[Coorslight]

no i havent. my best luck has been hot burning plugs. lately i've tried these silver tip accels. 6 on the heat range compared to 5 with irridiums.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-526s/overview/make/chevrolet