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familiarise yourself with the electronics, as most adjustments are electronic nowadays. common faults come in Suspension lights and heated seats. Can't add much to what the guys above have said. It looks a good clean bike and if it has a good service record it should be ok. Pitting on the chrome on the forks can be covered up easily so have a good look there. Owners manual here

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Smeggie is correct will have issue if not follow or match battery and charger spec's is a miss match of fire or boom.

to check chain stretch need to degree valves open / close events to crankshaft degree mark, or remove chain to check slack on flat suface by push / pull chain. get a shop manual for engine

strange that post removed or not make it dam AI protecting the sleezy about that frame was arc-welded when rest of bike was mig welded after was in a T-bone collusion for the rear right foot peg support tube was replaced for noticed arc-stick weld after purchase and Rob ment bent frame is not to factory jig spec's for the bike had a issue of turn radius wasn't the same when turning as left was longer than right was shorter when making turns for frame was .375 inch offset by the water test, great for right turn oval track. Legi yes change oil offen and can do a oil analysis to see how much metal in the oil and chain guide material, if a lot need to flush the oil cooler out. drive chain had worn the spockets thickness from side tracking due to miss alignment

I grew up on Japanese bikes. Starting on a honda qa-50 in kindergarten. To my last which was a suzuki gsxr-750 in my late 40's. Never had or rode a bmw. But if they are like Japanese models, then check all gaskets for signs of leaks or gasket replacement. Especially in hard to see places. Hondas in the 80's and 90's head and valve cover gaskets were notoriously leaky. Well if you rode hard, they were. And i would run the piss out of them. Just look for signs of baked oil stains on the motor. The bike pictured looks like it needs rode hard. . So i would ask to see behind the plastic !!! I quit ridding due to fuckin crazy ass drivers in cars. My daughter's boyfriend has a Hayabusa he said I can ride. Maybe at a race track. But not on the street.

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Just finished building a new computer to go to W11. Have two optical drives in my W10 box. For the W11 box bought an external optical drive CD/DVD/Bluray - R/W. Connects via USB - works great.

Well in theory chains should last the life of the engine, that's why they are used instead of belts, but in real life they do stretch, and tensioners do fail. I have not owned any of these engines, so have no practical experience of them. By nature motorcycle engines are highly stressed, they require oil changes at more frequent intervals than car engines. It may sound excessive but I used to change the oil every 1000-1500 miles, this helps prevent things such as cam chain tensioners working off oil pressure failing early. I do know from friends that these are good engines and give very little trouble, so I'd base my maintenance on how you use them. So assuming you're not racing or crossing the world your cam chains should be lasting at least 50,000 miles without stretching under normal use and same for the tensioners. By now they've been out long enough for there to be plenty of data and feedback from owners for reliability. Caution, remember most people only report when things are wrong, rarely when they're right, don't be scared by some reports. With chains there is always a slight rattle when cold, but this rattle should go at operating temps, people often confuse clutch rattle with timing chain rattle. So to answer your question about the chain tensioner and chain, remembering in theory the chain should last a long time:- 1/. Excessive noise change the tensioner 2/. If that doesn't work change the chain BUT don't forget noise can come from failing bearings, clutch and other engine parts, there should be a way of measuring chain stretch and when to change it. As it's the XR not the RR the engine produces less bhp and is not as stressed, which would be my personal choice of engine.